Josh-the-Locksmith
22 Years Experience
Austin, TX
Male, 42
I've been a locksmith since 1998. I did automotive residential & commercial work from 1998 to 2008. From 2008 to 2018, I did some residential, but mostly commercial work. I have been project managing & estimating since 2018. I used to locksmith in the Chicago area, now the Austin area.
Those are usually locks you can't just go out and "buy a key" for. Stay on your parent's good side, do as you're told/asked; and after they build up trust in you, they'll unlock it for you and life will be much more pleasant.
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Honestly, I don't think I've ever seen 10-pin tubular lock, but that doesn't mean they don't exist. They're just not very common. I suppose you could just count the pins since you can see them plain as day.
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Without knowing the details of the story, judging by your side of the story alone, it's definitely theft!! First off they can't charge you for something you didn't agree to pay for. Secondly, it's YOUR lock & keys, so that is definitely not right.
Some of these hack "locksmiths" will quote you a low price on the phone (you're usually talking to someone in a call center in another state), then they send an independent contractor out who works on commission. They usually don't know what they're doing & try to charge an arm & a leg. Sound accurate? I'd call the police if you're confident in your story. That's not right!
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Like I said in a previous post, it really depends on the area you live in. During regular business ours, it can range anywhere from $25 to $100. After hours, anywhere from $50 to $150. Hiring a reputable company makes a big difference as well. You might be quoted a little bit more on the phone, but the price will stay the same when the job is complete. There's a lot of shady companies who will quote you a low price on the phone, but the technician will jack up the price after the job is complete. It never hurts to double check the price when the technician arrives!
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It's possible that he used the wrong blank, or maybe the blank is bent or twisted. According to my records, the key blank should be: m-4, 1092V, MS9R, 81KR. Those are different part numbers for the same blank by different manufacturers. Check the key for that part number, if it's different, that might be a ref flag. Some keys don't have any part number on them though. I'd take it back to that locksmith.
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They're not easy, I'll tell you that! They put pick-resistant pins in there, most of the time, we end up cutting them off.
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I've worked on Unit Locks before, but not this specific one I don't think. From what I've read, you have to pry it out with a small screwdriver. Unfortunately I don't know any secret tricks without seeing one in person. Not sure if this would be easier, but there's a tool I've used for 15 years that has been SO useful. It's a red-handled 90 degree ice pick. it has the name Carolina Roller on the side.
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