Josh-the-Locksmith
25 Years Experience
Austin, TX
Male, 46
I've been a locksmith since 1998. I did automotive residential & commercial work from 1998 to 2008. From 2008 to 2018, I did some residential, but mostly commercial work. I have been project managing & estimating since 2018. I used to locksmith in the Chicago area, now the Austin area.
Not to break in, no. My boss at my last job let someone into a business they didn't own, but since he had gotten all the proper documentation, he wasn't liable. They were caught though. I had an old man call me out to change the locks on a house once, & after I got there I could tell he wasn't all there. Turned out it wasn't even his house! It was a friend's who was in the other room. She came out & said she didn't even want me to do it, but he insisted she did. It was 9 oclock at night, I didn't feel like dealing with it so I just walked out.
I'm sorry to say, but our Industry has been saturated with phony locksmiths. There are national companies that subcontract people and pay them by commission. When you called that locksmith, you were probably talking to someone in call center in another state. They quote you the base price, and when the subcontractor comes to you he quotes you however much he wants to make. This is not typical for a 24 hour locksmith. I've worked for two companies in the 13 years I've been a locksmith. Both of them were 24 hours, and we never did anything like that. These phony locksmiths put a bunch of ads online and in the phone book to make themselves look local. They even have fake Company names, they use local addresses that go to peoples houses and other businesses, so people think they're calling a local company. I recommend that you find one or two reputable local locksmiths and store the number in your phone.
I can get in pretty much every lock. I might do some damage, but I can get in! I can't get into vaults & a lot of safes. Just because I've never actually been trained for it.
I broken into a few safes, & bypassed more deadbolts than I can count. Unfortunately no exciting stories. I did manage to get a door open that had a multi-point lock system installed that broke in the locked position. Not fun!
Antiques Dealer
How easy is it to forge a rare piece, and are fakes a big problem in the antiquing world?Birthday Party Clown
What's the meanest thing a kid ever said to you during a party?Private Detective
What do you think is the most corrupt industry, city, and State in the country?I think if it was illegal, they probably wouldn't be able to sell them. I think they have to give that disclaimer so they can sell them legally. I never had to buy them online or sell them, so I'm no expert on the subject, that is just my opinion.
I have never seen any tools designed to specifically unlock the chain locks. I would assume the reason would be that they're not difficult to cut and easy and cheap to replace.
You can credit card a door knob or lever handle if they aren't installed correctly, & if there's enough slop in the door. Generally speaking, credit cards are too thick and stiff anyways.
There are no magic tricks. No blanket recommendation for breaking in a car. Too many cars require different methods. I can give you advice on how to PREPARE for it! Either sign up for a AAA membership ($50 a year which includs 3 free car openings) OR buy a small combo lock box & install it under your car. Only takes 2 screws. Just don't screw it into your gas tank. ;-)
None that I've ever heard of. I unlocked an old arcade game once so my friend could play for free! Haha
I ended up dating a girl who's car I unlocked. Another time, a lady who was going through a rough time straight up asked me to have sex with her! I declined and left as fast as I could.
We don't count on tips, but they're always appreciated! ;-) Personally, any time I have service work done at MY house, I always try to tip at least five dollars if I have it. If nothing else, offer them something to drink. I'm shocked at how many people don't do either.
School or work for someone: I've seen a lot of new locksmiths start businesses and fail because they weren't experienced, and were terrible at running a business. Personally, I would say work for someone for a while, learn the business, make mistakes on someone else's dollar, figure out what you like and don't like about the way they do things, and get comfortable approaching almost any lock situation. THEN start your own company. Pay: First of all, it totally depends on the going rates in your area. It varies quite a bit. You'll have to be doing auto for quite a while and get really good (making keys and servicing ignitions and door locks) before you'll make good money. Luckily, a lot of locksmiths hate auto work (like myself even though I did it for 10 years). There isn't much money in residential work. It's all in commercial work.
I used to a lot. For really close friends, I just did it for free unless they wanted to tip me. And then friends of friends started calling. I would just charge them a flat $20.
I think that you're probably right about that. My first boss always told me that I would probably see the end of mechanical locks in my day. I think we have 20-30 years before we see it trickle down to lower & middle class due to the cost of it. Obviously it's currently being use regularly in office bldgs everywhere, but the cost is $800+ a door. So they have a ways to go before we see the price drop low enough and have products designed simple enough for the mechanically-inclined homeowner to install it himself. They already have touch-screen deadbolts, remote control deadbolts, & obviously regular keypad deadbolts. Generally the reason businesses want to eliminate keys is for more control. Audit trails, easy & costly elimination of a fired employee, lots of benefits really; but not a lot for residential reasons other than convenience. Which is why we prob won't see it for quite a while, & mostly in high end home with home automation.
That's a really good question, but I honestly don't think I've ever heard a locksmith Joke! As my friend Alex would say, "I've met some locksmiths who WERE jokes!"
People getting their locks picked by burglars is very rare. What you should be more concerned about is making sure you have good strong strike plates on your jambs with long screws that go into the studs. If you're concerned about your locks being picked or drilled, then sure, buy Medeco or Mul-T-Lock deadbolts. They're awesome. They will cost you $200+ per lock. I think the majority of burglars are looking for an easier way in. Kicking the door in or breaking a window.
Sometimes there is a code stamped on a lock, & in those cases we can look up the cuts. Otherwise no.
Your best bet is to have one bookmarked before you actually need one. Get referrals from friends, check the Better Business Bureau, Chamber of Commerce, and keep your eyes open for actual brick and mortar lock shops in your area. A lot of phonies will list an address online or in the yellow pages, but it will be fake. The fakes use local numbers that redirect to a national call center. They hire local contractors who will upcharge you once (if) they show up. LOTS of scammers out there.
You can start a car by crossing wires on old cars, but you still can't just drive off. Steering wheels are locked & turning the key unlocks the wheel. Locksmiths don't do that anyways. We just make keys for the cars. Most newer vehicles have a chip in the key or the ignition. That security chip is required in order for the car to start, & every car's chip is different. That was designed to prevent people from "hot wiring" cars.
The first thing I'd try is squirting some high quality lubricant in there. Not WD40, and not graphite. Vehicle door locks get dry or corrode quickly, especially if you rarely use it. Secondly, I'd look at your key. If it's bent or a bad copy (possibly not visible to the untrained eye), that is very possibly the problem. A lock shop should be able to read & cut you a new factory-spec key. Past that, it's internal lock damage.
The first ones were, but they changed the lock to a higher security lock.
Yes that's real. Not many who can do it though.
Surprisingly not! Young, old, male, female, etc. a little bit of everybody.
Cuts 1-6
No lock is guaranteed, but some are easier to pick, or cut with bolt cutters. The goal is to make it as difficult as possible; so getting something so thick that you'll need an angle grinder to cut it off would probably be your best bet.
You should never pay that kind of money to have a locksmith open a car or house that takes 5-10 minutes. Prices vary depending on where you live, but that's ridiculous! They're ripping you off. You are being taken advantage of. There are some nationwide companies who hire subcontractors to work on commission. They quote people a small rate on the phone (which they're most likely in another state), & then the contractor charges whatever he wants to make. They use local phone numbers & fake addresses to make themselves look local. If you're ever quoted a price on the phone, ask the tech what the price will before he does any work. If it's not the same, or if he tries to add more without warning after the job is over, refuse to pay & call the police. He's probably trying to rip you off. It should always make sense. Obviously emergency calls in the middle of the night will be more expensive.
Cuts 1-6.
No, some keys that say "do not duplicate" is just a deterrent. It's simply an honor system. It's telling you that whoever gave you that key would prefer you didn't make a copy of it. It's up to the person copying it if they want to do it or not. Our shop makes you sign a waiver just to cover out butts. Other keys that say it might be covered by a patent. The blank might not even be available to them, that's called a restricted key. Mostly Medeco, Mul-T-Lock, Primus, etc, most of those are truly restricted.
Definitely not! I would say those cutters are fairly limited to what they'll cut off.
If you mean a copy of an existing key, probably $10-20 if you take it to a locksmith. If you're saying that you don't have a key, $150-350. Lots of variables, & different areas differ in rates.
That series is bringing up 2 different things made by CR- exit bars & Unit locks. Which are you working on? And a when you say "clip" are you referring to a snap ring?
Those are usually locks you can't just go out and "buy a key" for. Stay on your parent's good side, do as you're told/asked; and after they build up trust in you, they'll unlock it for you and life will be much more pleasant.
Big box stores charge less because they are able to get blanks for so cheap because they buy such a large bulk. It's also an inexpensive opportunity to get you INTO the store in hopes that you'll buy something ELSE while you're there. Most mobile locksmiths probably charge $2-3. Our company charges $2.85 per.
I'm sorry, I got out of making keys for cars about 5 years ago. I don't know the answer to that question. You may want to try hooking jumper cables up to the car & let it charge for a bit. Every once in a while that was an issue.
Without knowing the details of the story, judging by your side of the story alone, it's definitely theft!! First off they can't charge you for something you didn't agree to pay for. Secondly, it's YOUR lock & keys, so that is definitely not right.
Some of these hack "locksmiths" will quote you a low price on the phone (you're usually talking to someone in a call center in another state), then they send an independent contractor out who works on commission. They usually don't know what they're doing & try to charge an arm & a leg. Sound accurate? I'd call the police if you're confident in your story. That's not right!
Honestly, I don't think I've ever seen 10-pin tubular lock, but that doesn't mean they don't exist. They're just not very common. I suppose you could just count the pins since you can see them plain as day.
It may have been miscut or something. I can't help much more than that. If the locksmith charged you, I'd take it back to that locksmith, he must have made a mistake. You could try to get your money back and go to another locksmith.
I've never seen a Corbin multipoint lock in person, just a diagram of one online, but from what I can tell, this is a completely different animal. There are many reasons why it might not be unlocking, and destroying it to get it open might not be necessary or work the same way. I hate to say it, but your best bet would be to find an experienced locksmith who would be willing to tackle this project, but be prepared to spend some money in the off-chance it's not repairable, I'm sure these aren't cheap.
Like I said in a previous post, it really depends on the area you live in. During regular business ours, it can range anywhere from $25 to $100. After hours, anywhere from $50 to $150. Hiring a reputable company makes a big difference as well. You might be quoted a little bit more on the phone, but the price will stay the same when the job is complete. There's a lot of shady companies who will quote you a low price on the phone, but the technician will jack up the price after the job is complete. It never hurts to double check the price when the technician arrives!
They're not easy, I'll tell you that! They put pick-resistant pins in there, most of the time, we end up cutting them off.
I've worked on Unit Locks before, but not this specific one I don't think. From what I've read, you have to pry it out with a small screwdriver. Unfortunately I don't know any secret tricks without seeing one in person. Not sure if this would be easier, but there's a tool I've used for 15 years that has been SO useful. It's a red-handled 90 degree ice pick. it has the name Carolina Roller on the side.
It's possible that he used the wrong blank, or maybe the blank is bent or twisted. According to my records, the key blank should be: m-4, 1092V, MS9R, 81KR. Those are different part numbers for the same blank by different manufacturers. Check the key for that part number, if it's different, that might be a ref flag. Some keys don't have any part number on them though. I'd take it back to that locksmith.
It sounds like you have a mortise lock (8" long plate on the edge of the door held on with 2 screws? If so, that's the way they're designed and you can't change that. You could install a deadbolt above it. Granted the cat would still open the main lock, but at least the door would stay secure.
Depends on the brand. if it's a mechanical one the code will have to be either decoded by a professional or physically taken apart & reset. If it's electronic, some will have a button on the inside by the batteries that will allow you to program a new code. Schlage has a yellow sticker on the inside of theirs (behind the outside part of the lock) with the factory program & user codes. If the previous owner didn't change the program code, you're good to go.
If you've never taken a door panel off, take your time, look for hidden screws, and what doesn't screw on, snaps on.
Honestly, you're probably best off taking the lock to the dealer or a locksmith and either getting it rebuilt, or get a complete new one. They get very corroded when they don't get regular use. It's usually not a matter of just cleaning it out. Plus there may be pieces you'll have to replace.
Yes you can. It should be fairly inexpensive. The dealer can do it, as well as a lot of locksmith. From what I remember, you shouldn't even need to recut any keys. They will need both of your keys to do it though.
That's not really a question I can answer. It all depends on the laws in the state you live in and on the owner of the lock shop whether he wants to take the time to train someone your age, etc.
1 time I had to unlock a house for a guy who had a relative recently pass away, and nobody had a key to the house. The relative had a stroke and hit his head on the sink. After I opened the door, I saw a pool of blood coming out of the bathroom where he had died.
I've also had a lot of customers who think either everyone, certain neighbors, or the government is after them. So they end up paying us to put multiple high security pick and drill resistant deadbolts on their doors (interior and exterior). Naturally, the problem doesn't stop because they are senile. They complain about things being moved, or silly things missling like clothes, silverware, pictures, etc.
Go to your local brick and mortar locksmith shop and they'd be happy to give you that info. I can't do that on Jobstr.
Sure! It's possible. I've never seen it done, but I'm sure someone could figure out a way to do it.
Ok, try this...
Turn the dial COUNTER-CLOCKWISE and pass the number 40 three times and stop on it the 4rd time.
Turn the dial CLOCKWISE and pass the number 60 twice and stop on it the 3rd time.
Turn the dial COUNTER-CLOCKWISE and pass the number 10 once and stop on it the 2nd time.
Turn the dial CLOCKWISE until it stops. If the dial stops, you've entered it correctly and the handle should turn. Try this a few times. The devil's in the details!! Let me know what happens.
Try bringing it to a well established locksmith shop. They usually have a lot of old skeleton keys laying around. They can try them & see if 1 fits.
Depending on how bad the keyway is, you could try hammering the key into the keyway. If that's not an option, if a drill can access the padlock, maybe it can be drilled out. Those can be tricky though.
Yes you can key them alike, but you'll have to use the 5-pin keys, not the 6. A 6-pin key won't work a 5-pin lock properly.
Hard to say but most likely yes. A locksmith should be able to make a key, if nothing else, at least get it open for you.
Up until just recently (so I hear), Best products weren't available to locksmiths. Guess their sales have been down & they're trying to expand their market. I hear nothing but complaints about them. Good luck with that tool.
Yes you can do that. That's not that uncommon actually. If you have the time to wait, you can special order hardware specifiying the color inside & out, as well as handle style. Maybe online retailers, or maybe from your local walk-in locksmith. Not sure what the cost would be.
Not quite sure what you're asking. If you need a copy of a key, try your local walk-in locksmith shop. Just because it says USPS doesn't mean it's restricted or anything. A local shop should have it or should be able to get it.
Well Kwikset & Schlage are definitely the most common, but some others I run across are Baldwin, Emtek, Dexter, & Weiser. Medeco & Mul-T-Lock are high security locks, but I wouldn't say they're "common".
If you still have both halves of the key, you should be able to take it into a lock shop and they should be able to cut you a new one for under $20 (make an extra copy this time). If you don't, and need someone to come out, as long as it's a reputable locksmith, I would assume it won't be much more than $150. Really depends on where you live though. Prices fluctuate quite a bit around the country.
Is the English really that bad on the card? With something as particular as safe combination, you're going to have to give me exactly what the card says word for word.
This is the 2nd 1 I've seen like this. They're definitely going to get more popular, but I think we still have a ways to go before a majority will move away from a standard key. I have found that most people don't care about the few extra seconds they'll save by not having to use keys, & it's not worth the extra cost for a small convenience. Personally I love it & can't wait to see what's next!
There's no easy solution to a corroded & possibly stripped Allen set screw. If you're replacing it anyways, may as well drill the sucker out! Don't be afraid to go a little bigger than the hole. Use a new bit, otherwise you'll get frustrated quickly when you're not getting anywhere.
I'd go to a tire shop & see if another manufacturer's key might work. It's not a locksmith job. If that doesn't work, take a socket that barely fits over the lug nut & pound it on with a hammer. It will destroy the socket, but should be tight enough to wrench it off. (I've had this happen to me before too)
Yes if you can buy a batch of different skeleton keys, try that. They come in all different sizes & shapes, you'll probably find 1 that will worK if you try enough. Worst case scenario, call or bring it into a well-established lock shop. They should have a lot to try as well. They can also be custom made using blanks, but not a lot of locksmiths do that these days.
Lever lock. ????
Hmm I feel like if they're breaking/bypassing your locking gas cap, why wouldn't they just break the lock on your plate? I've personally never seen someone put a lock on the plate, but I suppose it would be worth going to a walk-in shop & getting an opinion.
They are not compatible.
You local locksmith might be able to pick or drill it open. You might have to buy a new safe after that. Luckily it's a cheap safe.
Sorry to hear, that's frustrating. Yes, you should be able to take that whole 6-digit code to a walk-in locksmith & get a key cut. You're right, the whole code isn't usually used. That price sounds like they are coming out to YOU to make the key. Sounds pretty high to me, unless it has a chip in the key or it has side-milling on it. If they still quote you that much even if you're taking it to them, check with ordering it from Honda.
Good question. Most likely you have to purchase it from a locksmith distributor. I'd google it. Since I don't and have never done the ordering where I've worked, I wouldn't begin to know where to tell you.
It's made by an Israeli company called Mul-T-Lock. They are restricted keys & are proprietary to the individual lock shop that bought the rights to that keyway. The lock shop's name on the key is the only place you can get it copied, & usually you have to be an authorized person who originally purchased the key system from that locksmith.
I've never heard of a "shackle plug", almost sounds fake. It's like saying an engine tire tool.
Absolutely not. There are still too many people who can't afford it, don't care about the convenience, don't like electronic technology, etc. Honestly, I kind of doubt manual locks will ever completely be obsolete. The demand just isn't there. Yes, there are already quite a few different options on the market, but they're still pretty expensive.
I've never started a locksmith business or been in the decision making process of that. As far as choosing which key blanks to stock, maybe once you find a distributor who regularly ships to your area, you can ask him which key blanks he sells a lot of to other locksmiths in your area. Another idea is you could always go into a local hardware store that cuts keys and ask them which keys they cut the most of.
You'd have to have a locksmith come out & decode it. Otherwise you can always take it in somewhere of its small enough to transport yourself.
It all depends what you are locking up, who you are locking out, & where this cabinet is. If you want it to look nice & you're keeping out non-aggressive people, definitely a cam lock. If it's in your garage and you want it to be harder to open requiring obvious damage, go with a padlock & hasp.
I haven't opened 1 in quite a while, & you also didn't say which year the car was, but I know there's a few cars that automatically relock after you unlock it if you're not using a key or remote. In those cases, I use an under-the-window tool & flip the manual unlock button, & in a split second pull the outside handle before it relocks. It takes practice to get the speed, but I got to wear I could do it the first try.
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Yes very possible. Could be 1 of 2 problems. 1- the lock needs repairing or replacing. The latch (springy part that pops out of the edge of the door) maybe sometimes not pop out all the way. 2- the latch may not line up properly with the strike on the jamb. It may not be falling into the hole every time. Weather, building shift, poor installation, & stretched out hinges can all effect that.
You're welcome! Glad I could help.
Trying to walk someone through that who doesn't have experience working with safe dials is like asking a mechanic to walk you through rebuilding an engine over the phone. You'll have to either take the safe to a locksmith or have 1 come out to do that for you. You're just lucky you got a safe that didn't need to be drilled open! $$$
If you had the plug in your hand, you'll see 6 brass wafers. 5 are matched to the cuts of your key, & the one all the way at the end by the tip of your key is called a "retainer". That is what holds the plug inside its housing. The spring or wafer may be wore out. You probably need to replace the whole plug. A locksmith can order those, or you may be able to buy it online. To reinstall it correctly, you'll need to put your key into the plug, & on the back of the plug you'll see it has a rectangular drive. If you look into the housing you'll see a female rectangular shape. The plug seems like it could go in 2 ways, but it actually will only go in 1 way. If after you've pushed the plug in, if it's sticking out an 1/8" or more, you have it in wrong. Flip it 180 degrees & try again. If you have it in correctly, it should only be sticking out about 1/16" of an inch. Hold the plug & pull your key out. You'll need a stiff paper clip or something similar to reach into the far back of the plug & pull that retainer back as you push on the plug. It should fall in once you've pulled that retainer back. Once seated correctly, it will be flush.
Depends on what state you live in. Some you can't even be a locksmith until you're 21. Some don't have any restrictions, no licensing. Some do background checks, fingerprints etc. Find out what the laws are in your state, & if you're of age, check with some shops & see what they'll do.
Hard to say without seeing the door. If he didn't tell you while he was there that it would be difficult to operate for whatever reason, then yes he should fix it. Generally, a deadbolt should never be that hard to operate. It sounds to me like the bolt isn't lined up with the strike hole.
Sounds like you're using a combination lever handle. Maybe get a combo deadbolt instead? Schlage makes the best residential combo deadbolts on the market in my opinion.
Unfortunately yes you have to replace the entire desdbolt. There are a few replacement parts needed for the conversion, & manufacturers just don't sell conversion kits. But hey, look on the bright side, if you just bought your house, you need to rekey your locks anyways, so you're killing 2 birds with 1 stone!
It's difficult to give you any advice the way you're describing it. It's illegal for a locksmith to cut a high security key for someone who isn't listed as an authorized person, so unless it's a very shady locksmith, that's probably not a possibility. Most likely they got in another way. If you don't see some serious pry marks on your door or deadbolt, then they probably didn't get in that way. Your deadbolt may just need to be tightened. It sounds like you need to have a locksmith come out & give you some options. It's awfully difficult for me to give you advice without seeing what you're talking about in this case.
No, I have never come across one of those.
I think working for another well-rounded locksmith for at least 5-10 years would give you enough training to start a locksmith business. Why not get paid to learn the trade? Otherwise you'll spend all your time learning instead of making money. This is 1 of those jobs where most of what you learn, you'll learn in the field. ALOA puts on a lot of classes, there are online classes, & there's always Youtube!
It can be one of two problems. Either the keys to the rooms are cut poorly, or the locks are pinned improperly.
That's a hard question to answer since I don't know what area you live in. I believe Pop-a-lock does subcontacting & they're nationwide. There aren't many though.
Maybe a spring clip? I'm not sure, I don't think I've ever heard the name of it. Either way, you should be able to use either the nut or the spring clip.
Well yes if the strike isn't lined up correctly with the latch. You could just pull it up because the latch isn't falling into the hole. If you have a sliding door, those hook bolts are spring loaded. So you can throw the hook bolt & it feels the same whether it goes into the hole or not.
If by alternative locking system you mean a better safe, Liberty Safes makes good reasonably priced gun safes. Libertysafe.com should be able to find a dealer in your area.
Can you send me a picture of it on twitter? @ATXJOSHL Since I don't know what brand it is, I have no idea what you're dealing with.
Take a drill bit the same thickness as the screw, or slightly bigger, & drill the stripped screw as if you were trying to drill a hole right down the center of it. You really only need to drill enough to get the head of the screw off.
I highly doubt it. I'd just cut it off if I were you. They don't usually have a way to disassemble stuff like that.
Absolutely not. In fact I dont know many who have been to school for locksmithing. Most people apprentice. Sometimes it's knowing the right person, sometimes it's finding a shop who wants to hire cheap labor & train you.
1.21 gigawatts.
There are many different types of knobs & locks that fit your description, so the best thing I could tell you is send me a photo of it on Twitter & I can help you there. @ATXJOSHL
First I would measure the cuts on the keys to make sure those are correct. Working with improperly cut keys is the most frustrating thing. Assuming you don't know how to master key, measure and write down the cuts to both keys. For example I'll use: 2536443122Write down the smallest number in each chamber...23122 those are your bottom pins. Follow the factory spec'd pins if you're using a LAB kit. Then to figure out the master pins, subtract the smallest number in each chamber from the bigger one. 22242 those will be the master pins. If you need additional help, hit me up on twitter. ATXJoshL There are so many variables as to why it might not be working. Cylinders aren't manufactured to factory specs, keys are improperly cut, using wrong pins, etc.
Sometimes the weather can cause your house to shift, and doors & frames to swell. Over time your hinges may get stretched out or the screws in the hinges get loose causing your door to sag as well. It sounds like the strike plate is out of adjustment. This can also be caused by replacing your door knob/lever, or any changes to the lower strike plate (on the jamb).
First, make sure the lower strike plate is secure and adjusted properly exactly where you want it. Then, depending on how off it is, you might be able to just take a metal file and file the spot where it's hitting on the top strike plate for the deadbolt (on the jamb). Or you can move the whole plate until it's exactly where you want it. To test it without putting a bunch of screws in the jamb, TAPE it where you want it first, test the deadbolt, make your marks, then screw it in place.
There is sometimes a series of letters & numbers stamped into the face of the lock. Like "132E". If you have 1, take that number & the brand of the file cabinet into a locksmith shop, & they should be able to cut you a key. Otherwise of you don't have a code on the lock, you can either remove the cylinder & replace it, or have a locksmith come out & he should be able to do it.
I had to ask 1 of our shop techs who deals with remotes about this one. He says that Honda (who makes Acura) has used the same programming procedure for years, so it should work, but no guarantees. All you can do is try. The differences might have something to do with the style of the remote, or maybe certain features in the remote.
Most likely your lock was masterkeyed. When you picked it 180 degrees, a master pin probably fell into the keyhole. If you're renting, you will need to have your landlord have his locksmith come out & fix it. If it's your own house, you'll need to take the deadbolt off, take it into a lock shop, & they will remove the stuck pin & probably have to rekey it back to your key.
Sounds like you may have had some master pins fall into the key hole. You need to have someone take it apart & repin the lock. Take it to a lock shop, have someone come out, or buy a new deadbolt.
Well typically the most standard size hole is 2-1/8". Sometimes people will drill a 1-1/2" hole though, which is probably what you have. Depending on what lock you bought, most can be adapted to fit a 1-1/2" hole. Read your instructions. If you can't figure it out, message me on Twitter at ATXJoshL
Personally, I don't think a certificate is going to make much difference. A locksmith company wants a good employment record, a good driving record, & an excellent background check.they are generally either looking for an experienced locksmith, or a very reliable new locksmith who trains very easily and is willing to start out at a low wage. They want to know what you can do, & what you're capable of & willing to learn. A certificate doesn't mean much. Real world experience is everything because we learn something new every day at this job.
I've never started a locksmith business. I've only worked for a couple.
That is true. It's very common with new housing projects. I have seen contractors returning to the home on their lunch breaks while the homeowners are gone. If you feel like they're still coming in somehow, get your house rekeyed.
Anywhere from $150 to $350. Hard to say. it varies so much depending on city, area, & locksmith.
Not really. The only way to save some money would be to take the door lock out & take the whole car to a lock shop so they don't have to come to you, but that's just not practical. I'd just call around & get price quotes. Even ask the dealer. Then ask the technician again for the price before they get started once on site. Nobody likes suprises.
It's so hard to say without being there & seeing it in person, but the key could be not cut perfect, spacing could be off, key could be old & wore out,
The inside knob should have a set screw that takes a flat head screwdriver. Unscrew it, & the whole knob should get loose & unscrew counterclockwise. Then the spindle should slide out the front. If it's a 2-piece spindle, there will be 2 halves. 1 will slide straight out & the other you will lift in 1 direction or the other to unhook it from the lock.
The only plastic ring that comes to mind is on the Schlage deadbolts. It allows the deadbolt to hold snug in the door while you put the mounting screws in. You can remove it and the metal ring as well if need be. There should be 2 screws on the inside of the keyed side. 1 holds the cylinder in place, the other holds the plastic & metal ring on.
If I'm totally off, send me a photo on my Twitter account: @ATXJoshL
There might be a code stamped on the ignition. I haven't made a key to a Harley in years, & when I did I didn't use the code.
That's not true at all. A locksmith can come out to you & make a key to your truck & program the key to your truck on site. The only reason it would need to be replaced is if your ignition key is different than your door key (usually they're the same key) or if the ignition is severely worn or damaged.
Yes, look for a lock called a "storeroom" lock. You can get it in a knob form or a lever. It's always locked from the outside, & always lets you walk out from the inside without having to unlock it first. They are available in 3 grades (grade 3 being the lowest, & grade 1 bring the highest). I'd recommend a grade 2. For example, search Amazon for Schlage F80 to see examples.
They don't really make a deadbolt that is automatic. Like you said, they do, but it can be turned off.
Sorry for the late response, this question slipped through the cracks. By blank vintage key, do you mean skeleton key? I'm not quite sure what you mean, but your best bet for anything vintage would be to find a lock shop that has been around a LONG time. They usually have old blanks, & are familiar with anything you'd consider vintage.
I would swap the 3 & the 5.
Well from the way you make it sound, both sides are already locked, and people are just climbing over the fence? I think if these people are going to go to those lengths to get past the fence, it won't matter what lock you put on. Perhaps barbed wire? Snipers? Electric fence? Honestly, I don't know if there is a reasonable solution for fence hoppers. Security cameras and prosecution might work! If you're asking for a solution to allow tenants access through the lock, you could get a double-sided combination lock. Simplex makes one that holds up decently well. It's the EE1000 series.
I will give you a call.
Whichever locks you have the key numbers to, yes, you can get a key cut to those specific locks using the numbers. It will probably be more expensive than a standard duplicate key, but it's very doable.
There should be an Allen set screw on the inside handle. You should be able to loosen it & slide the inside handle off, & then the outside handle & spindle will slide out the front. But I've never seen a split spindle on a door lock like that.
Yes that's the most common thing locksmiths do! You can either bring the locks into a shop, or for a little more money, have a locksmith come out to you. They can cut keys on site in their vans.
If it is a warded lock, aka "skeleton" key, there may be. You would have to either take it to a locksmith or have a locksmith come out to you & bring a set of "tryout" keys. If its not a warded lock, a locksmith might be able to rekey them all alike, or replace the locks so they all match.
Sometimes you can buy an aftermarket cylinder that will fit into some locks. Really just depends on what "specialty lock" you're referring to. If it is indeed a lock that will accept an aftermarket cylinder, a locksmith should carry it and be able to key it to your key for you. What you'll be looking for is called a "key-in-knob cylinder". I would take your specialty lock in with you and let them see if it is possible.
Nope never heard of such a thing. There are such a small handful of locksmith apps as it is, that would be such a niche market, I can't imagine that app would ever get made.
Absolutely. They sell rings of "try out" skeleton keys online, or if you're lucky enough to live by a good experienced locksmith, they should carry them. They can come out to you, or you can bring the lock or dresser into the shop & they can make you a key.
Yes that is true. You'd only have to save between 7,000 and 9,999,999 keys depending brand/type of key and the key system.
I'm not an insurance expert, but as far as I know, if he's considered a contractor (which is what it sounds like), then the company doesn't have to insure their employees, or provide insurance. If he's hired on, & receives a W2 every year, I believe they're legally supposed to carry liability insurance- workmans comp, which protects employees in case they get hurt on the job. But I believe depending on the amount of employees, if it's under 50 (I think) they're not legally required to provide insurance.
1. The most important activity... That's a very vague question. Important in regard to what? Important to my boss, important to the customer, or important to myself? Boss: making the customer happy. Customer: pinning their locks properly and cutting their keys correctly so they can secure and open their business or home. Me: getting from point a to point B safely.
My fingers get cramped & start to hurt after long hours of pinning locks & stamping keys. Luckily that's a small part of what I do. Installing & repairing hardware is also a large part.
Yes definitely. Most likely the door panel needs to be pulled & the linkage reconnected.
It sounds like something is not right. If you have Twitter, send me a photo of the edge of the door and inside the hole. @ATXJOSHL Other than that, I would take a pair of big pliers and grab the latch inside the hole and shake it back and forth to try to loosen it up. Then try to pull it out again with that big screwdriver.
If you're asking can safe combinations be reset, yes, if you know the current code, or if the safe is already opened. If not, they usually have to be professionally opened by drilling, or a few other techniques.
If you mean a chip in the key, yes I believe all Cadillacs do. They started hiding the chips under the plastic head of the key, but in the 80's and 90's you could see the chip embedded in the blade of the key right below the head of the key.
Is this a Kwickset lock? If so, that is a fairly common problem. You probably just need to replace it. You shouldn't need to take off the front lever in order to remove it from the door. After you take the inside lever off, the trim plate covering the inside screws should either pop straight off by prying underneath a small cutout under the plate against the door, or twisting it counterclockwise a short turn, then it will pull off. All depend on brand & model. That would have been helpful.
Absolutely. If you still have the pieces to your original broken key, they can cut you a new one off of that, otherwise make one from a door/glove box lock, depending on the car.
It really depends on how old your lock is. I believe the new Dexter locks are designed different than the old ones. You're probably better off just getting a new deadbolt. Look for something that specifies "drive-in" latch, or "6-way" latch. Most don't come 1 specific way, they come with adapters so you can change it from square faced to a drive-in latch.
I would guess you could probably order a key for it with a google search. Those cases are just a deterrent, nothing more. Probably not even worth locking in my opinion. Someone can just carry the whole case off and open it later with a big screwdriver.
Unfortunately the big name companies don't make one, but there's a company called Lockey that makes some. They aren't real high quality, but it is a solution.
Definitely not.
99% of the time, no definitely not. The only time I would ever drill a lock before trying to pick it is if it is high security and I know there is no way I'm going to get that thing picked. If you had somebody come out to your house to unlock it, and you have regular residential locks, I am sorry for you. You hired someone very unprofessional.
What I always do is take a big screwdriver and put it through the 2" hole BEHIND the latch. Grabbing a hold of each end of the screwdriver, pull towards you. The latch should shoot out at your chest. That way you're my prying against the door.
If you had asked me that a couple years ago I would have told you no. They had a lot of problems initially. I believe they are on their 3rd version now and it seems to be holding up pretty well. So basically sure I would. They're a pretty good lock.
Could've lots of things. Motorcycle, safe, tool box, hard to say. It's a widely used key.
You could try a KW1, which is Kwikset.
I've never worked on a door that required me to take the door down to take out or work on a cylinder, so no, you probably shouldn't have to do that. Now if the bottom concealed latch/bolt needs work, sometimes you do have to take the door down, sometimes not.
I don’t do automotive work anymore, and it will probably greatly depend on your local market prices, but a locksmith should be able to do that for you, and use your existing key to cut the new key. I would roughly guess $75-100 to program the remote, & $50-100 to program and cut the key (if it has a chip in it). Be careful though, some locksmiths won’t cut and program 3rd party keys and remotes. So ask around before you buy.
Take it to a locksmith. Being that old, you might be lucky it even comes out at all!
Haha no he is not lying. It’s called “masterkeying a lock”. Entire office buildings are masterkeyed so a Bldg Mgr can carry 1 key & get in every door, but every door can also have its own individual key that doesn’t work anything but that 1 door.
Well you have 2 options then. Take the lock off & take it to a locksmith, or call a locksmith to come out and make a key. Obviously the cheapest option would be to take it to a locksmith.
If you don’t have chip in your key, which I don’t believe you do, you should be able to. Passenger side would be your best bet for a few reasons. If a car manufacturer puts a code on a lock, it’ll be the passenger door lock (not all do). If you damage anything while taking it out, it won’t effect your every day use since you rarely open your passenger door.
1- it's impossible to truly know who the owner is. The best we can do is take as much information as we can just in case things go south. So we get a drivers license, plate, year, make & model, location, time, name, address, & phone number. If it's a home, the drivers license or a piece of mail has to have the address on it. 2- if you don't have money, we don't do the service. If you don't have ID, we prob wouldn't do the service unless it was a special circumstance. 3- to my knowledge, there aren't any laws i know of that saw you can't over-charge people. But in many states it's illegal to operate as a locksmith without a permit or license. A lot of these guys are contractors & do not have one. I tell people all the time that everyone should have the name & phone number of a reputable locksmith in their phone. It's your job to research the company you're hiring. There are a LOT of crooked companies out there, & the only thing that can stop them is smart & knowledgeable customers. Leave reviews on Yelp & Google, report them to BBB. Ask for a quote before they do the work. If you don't like it, call someone else. You should never feel pressured or threatened.
Can you just drill the hole deeper?
Nope unfortunately not. National makes locks that go into so many different things, many of which share key blanks. Could be a file cabinet, cam lock, tractor, who knows!
Its not an easy job! You're better off installing a cylindrical deadbolt ABOVE your surface-mounted deadbolt. Still not easy if you're not used to doing it, and takes a lot of specialty tools- 2-1/8" hole saw, chisels, 1" paddle bit or hole saw, etc. If you care about the cosmetics of your door, you might be better off hiring a locksmith do it a proper job.
If your front door key will fit in the lock on your garage, it doesn't even have to turn, take the locks off and take them to a locksmith. They should be able to make them match your front door. If it doesn't fit, take your front door key and get a couple replacement locks that will accept it. Have them rekeyed to match. If you don't care if they match or not, take your garage locks off and take them to a locksmith to get re-keyed, or just buy a new set
I wish I could help you, but I do not do safe manipulation.
I'm not familiar with strong box. A google search brought up quite a variety of different things. I would say see if you can order one from the manufacturer, otherwise if it is a fairly simple design, I'm sure a cylinder could be modified to work.
I got started in this field because my uncle is a locksmith. The easiest way is to apprentice for a locksmith. The pay would obviously start really low. There is also schooling you can do. Depending on the state, many require registration with the state with fingerprints, background check, & yearly continued education credits to keep your permit active.
Glad to hear and you’re welcome.
No, not possible. It doesn't mean you have to damage the door/lock though. The door can be picked open, lock disassembled, and a key made to the lock. Call a reputable company though, don't just look for the cheapest price.
If you're going from 1 inch to 1-1/4 inch, that's a pretty big difference. The adjustable collar probably won't be adjustable enough to accommodate a 1-1/4 mortise cylinder. I would stick with 1 inch or 1-1/8 inch.
Our company does, but I can't speak for most. We charge $50. It will vary depending on what market you're in. You would have to call around to locksmiths in your area to get a realistic price.
The drawer will need to be in the unlocked position to get the plug back in (usually). Put the paper clip all the way in the back of the plug and as you gently push in on the plug, push the spring-loaded wafer with your paper clip positioned all the way in the back.
I don’t recall there being a lock that can be converted to that function. Possibly a full mortise lock made by Sargent. Their mortise locks carry multiple functions. Most locks have to be purchased with their specific function. It sounds like the one you’re referring to is called Storeroom function. It can be opened with a key, but once the key is removed, it remains in the locked state ensuring that once the door is closed, the door is locked.
Thank you for the video! That’s very helpful! So it looks like there’s nothing wrong with your deadbolt, your gate has shifted and is putting pressure on the bolts. Grab the gate right above the deadbolt and pull down as hard as you can while you turn the key counterclockwise. That should allow you to retract the bolt. As far as fixing the problem goes, you will need to elongate the hole on that the bolt goes into upward. That won’t be easy or fun, maybe 20 minutes labor for an experienced tech.
I had to google “sash jammer”, never heard of that term! I don’t know the whole situation with why they haven’t properly replaced your lock- could be they have to special order the parts. Some doors use specialty parts that aren’t available at your local hardware stores. It wouldn’t be fair for me to judge the management company. I’m sure there is a legitimate reason, as they would be liable to leave your door unsecured. Is the sash lock securing your door? You tell me. If you were to go on the outside of your door, do you have to use reasonable force to get it open if you didn’t have a key? If yes, then it’s secure enough. Is it the most secure lock on the market? Definitely not. Is it as secure as your old lock? Maybe not. But it is temporary, correct? 2-4 days isn’t the end of the world. It may seem like it, but you have to remember that you and management are the only ones who know your door isn’t as secure as it used to be. To the common criminal, your door is just as secure as everyone else’s, so you’re not a target unless you put a sign on your door that says so.
Maybe you broke the circuit board in your key, or maybe you broke your ignition antenna when you dug your key out.
I would guess steel or pot metal. All depends on the brand, quality, etc.
Some locksmiths have some awesome stories. Unfortunately I haven’t had many hilarious ones. I unlocked the wrong car one time. I figured it would be a good idea to get a head start before the customer came out to the small parking lot. I didn’t even notice there was an identical make, model, & color car right next to it! Another time I cut off the wrong padlock on a storage unit. That time it was the renters fault. After she slid the door open, “Oops! That’s not mine. Sorry! Oh yeah! It’s this one over here!” ????
Being that I don't know exactly what kind of application you are dealing with, I can only give you some ideas. First off, I've never seen a padlock hasp material that can't be cut with a grinder. What you need to find is something pick-resistant, and something that hides that shackle so bolt cutters and a grinder can't even GET to it. Just for some ideas- https://youtu.be/L6iMmCSayBQDepending on the design of the hasp, a "hockey puck" padlock might be an option. Mul-T-Lock makes a pick-resistant one with restricted keys. Look up model KW-TR100. Other brands make similar more inexpensive ones such as Abus & Master.
Sounds like you may have a Kwikset privacy lock. You need a small flat head screwdriver, or privacy key. Stick it in that hole as you twist the key left and right slowly. Eventually you will feel it engage into a slot. Once you do, twist the screwdriver, or key, I think it’s counter-clockwise. It will only turn 1 way. This is what the key looks like. http://www.mrlock.com/tools-equipment/tools-rekey-kits/lock-service-tools/kwikset-emergency-tool-81087 If you don’t have access to either, those locks will open with a credit card, stiff cardboard, or flexible sheet of plastic. Just stick it between the door & frame next to the lock. They are not made to be resistant to shimming like entry locks are.
Haha there’s no such thing as a “key that will open anything”. That’s some terrible information, whoever told you that. You can’t lock your landlord out, they own the property. If they find that you have changed the lock without their permission, they have the ability to charge you to correct the problem, assuming that is in the contract you signed. They make privacy deadbolts that allow you to lock the door from the inside with no way to access it from the outside. It’s called a one-sided deadbolt. They require them on all rental properties here in Texas for that very purpose, for privacy so your landlord doesn’t walk in on you. You could request 1 that your landlord let you get 1 of those installed?
“Can I fix it myself” that’s something only you can answer. You can do anything with enough determination. Since I don’t know what kind of lock you have, I can’t offer any tips. Just some good practices to follow if you do try it yourself- Take pictures, take something apart. Take more pictures, take another piece off. Etc. To find a reputable locksmith in your area, try using findalocksmith.com. It’s owned by the most reputable locksmith association in America.
I searched that number and it came up with a mailbox key. Did he have a PO Box?
Yes you should be able to do that.
Not usually, but you might be able to get it duplicated onto a new key.
If you're referring to a bar that goes across the whole door, that is an exit device. The trim you're referring to for that exit device would be considered storeroom function trim. Also if you wanted the same type of functionality in a lever instead of a bar, that would be a storeroom lever.
The company name is Emhart. It uses a Corbin Russwin cam called a “cloverleaf” cam.
I’ve heard of intruders like this. Are they not stealing anything of real value, just moving around items of yours, hiding things?
I assume you have a glass and aluminum storefront door. You can replace that inside keyed cylinder with a thumb turn, they are very inexpensive, usually $10-15. Labor time is 2-5 min. You can have a locksmith come out and do it for you, or probably YouTube it if you’re trying to save yourself money. https://youtu.be/nJT0moSoNJM
That is a Yale mortise lock. No, the August will not work on that lock. You would need to install a cylindrical deadbolt above it.
Anything is possible. It may require some modifications though. The fact that the wire comes into the safe so high above the lock is what seems questionable to me. normally that's probably where the dial spindle would come though, and that's quite a distance above the lock. You may want to call your local locksmith and find someone who does a lot of safe work. Send them that photo, safe brand and model, maybe even a picture of the front as well, and see if they would be willing to tackle it. Some conversions are quick and simple, I wouldn't say that one will be.
Being that Best would only sell to the end user, I haven't worked with many Best locks. BUT my guess would be it's possibly not a poke hole. It won't come apart like a typical lever. That hole is possibly a grab hole for a spanner wrench. You insert the tip of the wrench in that hole and rotate it counter-clockwise. If you don't have a spanner wrench, just use a big pair of pliers. Grab the part of the knob where that small hole is and twist it counterclockwise. It should start to get looser and eventually unscrew.
Probably yes. There’s a clip that holds the thumb turn on, usually a compression ring, you should be able to break it off, then replace it with a screw of some sort. You’d have to get creative. It might deactivate the “interconnected” feature, which would prevent someone on the inside from being able to turn the lever and unlock the door, creating a major fire and safety hazard. I would not recommend tampering with it for that reason. It’s an accident waiting to happen.
There’s no question, deadbolt all the way! Deadbolts: 1 inch in length, when installed right, goes into the stud. They are also locked in place when fully extended. Can’t be “credit carded”.
Latches: 1/2” in length, easier to credit card, easier to crow bar the door open, must be installed just right otherwise it’s very easy to credit card open. Also easier to lock yourself out of the house. Also they only lock into a 3/4” piece of wood. Can usually be kicked open with 1 kick.
None of my exterior doors have latches, all are deadbolted.
I don't do any automotive these days. Haven't in 9 years.
With some cars, you can deactivate all keys and reprogram certain keys. Or just plain rekey the ignition so it mechanically doesn’t work either.
Since I wasn’t there, I can’t answer that. But, I can tell you that if maintenance is going to take their time to pretend to rekey your lock, they probably did it. It’s not worth the liability to fake it. What probably happened was 1 of 2 things. Either the new combination of pins just happened to be very close to your old key (I’ve seen it happen); or they didn’t dump all the master pins out of your lock when they rekeyed it (novice mistake, & not surprising since they’re not locksmiths). In either case, call them back & let them know that it needs to be redone if you’re worried about it.
A locksmith with a shop should be able to do it.
I don't have a good answer for you I'm sorry to say. I think your troubles may be bigger than any lock or security product can solve. I can only advise that you don't stick any more money into it if you have tried cameras, security system, AND locks. I don't know anyone who can crack all of those with no damage, and only to take a shower and eat some food? It doesn't add up.
Absolutely yes they do. Spray silicone or Teflon spray into the key hole. Doesn’t have to be much at all. Just a quick short squirt.
Can you send me a couple photos on Twitter? @ATXJoshL
Sorry nope, never heard the name Kordex before.
If it’s the correct clover cam, it shouldn’t be slipping. It’s possible something is wrong with the lock body. Narrow down your problem. Take the cylinder out and turn the key all the way around. Is anything loose? Screws on the back tight? Now stick your finger into the lock body and try to simulate the motion of the cylinder cam. Does everything feel fluid? Really loose? Broken? Putting grease on the cam won’t help or hurt. You’re better off squirting a good lube into the mortise body and spray it around a bit. I love Super Lube. Some local shops might carry it. Even some bike stores. Amazon of course. Something that will stick & not dry up.
You can drive it to a locksmith shop and they might be able to rekey them to match. Or they can make a key to the doors and trunk. With newer cars, it’s very common that the doors and truck locks quit working because people only use remotes to open them. So the locks corrode and seize up. If that is a possibility with you, you can try squirting some WD-40 or a penatrant like PB Blaster, made for loosening rusted nuts. Let it sit 30 min, then run your key in and out a bunch to loosen it up. Then try turning it. I’ve seen that work a lot.
Are you saying your alarm system isn’t going off, and your cameras aren’t picking anyone up?
Wow! Can’t say I have! ????
I don’t know if you’ll be able to find anything to work with your existing hardware. They quit making that lock YEARS ago, & parts usually aren’t compatible between mortise locks, except cylinders of course. You’re probably better off replacing the whole thing if you want a big change like that, or if something breaks.
I would just call that the original key, and the other the copy. Or maybe the depth key?
I don’t service safes very often, but it could be either the keypad or the electronic lock inside the safe. Sounds like it’s time to call a safe technician out. It probably won’t be something you can handle.
Contact Brinks for that key, or call your local locksmith. I looked up that code, & it didn’t bring up anything. If you just need a key copied, they might be able to do that in house; if not, they can probably order you a key.
Hard to say without knowing what kind of lock exactly, but sometimes those old mortise locks have a split spindle. You remove 1 half by sliding it out, and the other half hooks into the lock. You just unhook it. Some brands have a solid spindle that goes all the way through, but I’ve never seen it get stuck. Some have a screw that screws into the spindle from the backside, but if you don’t see a place where a screw would go into it, that’s probably not the case. Those are my best guesses. Any one spindle has always been either solid and once you get 1 knob off, it just slides out of the lock, of the split spindle style.
Yes, Medeco makes a few different options. I would recommend finding a local locksmith who sells Medeco and buying through them. There are a few options with different features. Medeco XT, Medeco Classic Cliq, and M3 X4 Cliq. Classic Cliq might be your best option, economically. Your local rep could probably give you some better guidance.
If you can find a 5-Pin E key-in-lever (also called key-in-knob) cylinder, you can replace the one that comes stock in the Sense with that one. The only problem is, most aftermarket KIK cylinders are 6-pin, so you might have a hard time finding one.
An alternative would be a Yale Real Living deadbolt. They come touch screen or with a physical keypad. They’re much more aftermarket cylinder friendly. Just purchase an aftermarket Schlage E key-in-knob cylinder, have it keyed to your key, & have the locksmith install it into the deadbolt for you.
Not quite sure what you mean by that, but if you mean the MOST redundant lock, it would be the residential locking door knob/lever in an exterior application. I always recommend people to replace them with a non-locking handle, or disable the one they have so it no longer locks. Most people who get locked out of their homes do so because they walk out with a key and it automatically locks behind them. You don't really have the problem with a deadbolt. That is of course assuming they have a deadbolt. Also, compared to a deadbolt, there are no comparison in the security. Deadbolts are MUCH more secure, and adding a locking knob/lever doesn't really help the security of the door.
Sounds like you are describing the most common deadbolt that people put on their houses and retail storefronts. One problem I see with that is there is what may be more secure against a physical attack may not comply with your local fire code. Being a classroom you have to comply with a code that requires 1 motion for your students to get out in a fire. Such as a lever handle, you just turn and walk out. If you had a separate deadbolt on the door, it would require knowledge of the deadbolt being locked & having to turn the lever. Makes a big difference when the room is filled with smoke in a panic situation.
I think in an active shooter situation, a locked lever handle is going to stop someone unless they’re willing to shoot their way through, and then you have a different problem. They’re not going to take the time to get tools out and pry the door open.
To me the most common sense solution is a lever that can be locked or unlocked with a key from both sides. So a teacher can lock the EXTERIOR lever of the classroom from the inside or the outside with a KEY. Yet when the inside lever is turned, people can still escape if they had to whether it had been locked or not. It would also allow emergency responders to get into the room with a master key. That function does exist by the way. It carries different names depending on the manufacturer. The more common lever style is a thumb turn on the inside, keyed on the outside. The problem with that is it allows a student to lock the door, which in normal day-to-day operation could be a problem with students messing with it, potentially locking a teacher out of their own classroom.
The “best” and “cheapest” won’t be the same. I’d say get prices from your Ford dealer and a few local locksmiths. Sometimes the dealer is cheaper, sometimes locksmiths are cheaper. Keep in mind that if you go to the dealer, you’ll be paying for a tow as well. Locksmiths will usually come to you and do it on site.
I believe I know what you’re talking about. A 1-way screw. Either order or go to Harbor Freight or probably about any hardware store & get a security bit set. The bit you need looks like a flat head screwdriver with a slot in the middle. Almost like a tiny fork with only 2 points. Put a lot of pressure on that screw & twist.
I haven’t worked on cars in over 10 years. Some cars the computers need to be reflashed with a tool, some the keys can just be reprogrammed to the car. Unfortunately I can’t give you an accurate answer. Find a locksmith who works on those who will come out to you, or get it towed to the dealer.
That’s not an easy thing to answer. In a nutshell, if all of your locks take the same type of key, you can use ONE of your keys and build a master key system using that key as a starting point, but you will have to recut every other key. Typically you can’t take a bunch of random keys and make them all work in a master key system. If someone tells you they can, they are not doing you any favors.
It either has to be digital or mechanical. And if it’s digital, there are plenty of smart locks to choose from. The only thing smart about a mechanical lock is they don’t require batteries. :-)
Not sure how that would effect it unless they took some wiring apart. I’d call the locksmith back and see if they can help you. I don’t have much experience with programming keys on newer vehicles.
There’s no such thing as a universal car key that I’ve ever seen. What I assume you ordered was an uncut I programmed key. I don’t know what year your car is, but you probably still need to have a locksmith or Honda dealership cut and program the key for you.
Oh yes, that is what master key systems are all about. Most office buildings, industrial buildings, etc use those so the higher ups can carry 1 master key, while different depart heads can carry 1 sub-master that gets them in all the doors in their departments, and also have individual keys for offices, storage closets, electrical closets, etc. Its complicated, but that’s what locksmiths get paid to do.
Yes they can.
You could get z-wave deadbolts and a z-wave hub to control them. Set it up to where when 1 deadbolt unlocks, it automatically unlocks the other deadbolt.
Otherwise, Mul-T-Lock makes a deadbolt with a remote keypad. You could check to see if it can be set up to control multiple deadbolts.
I’ve never seen the Lockey Pro in person, but I have dealt with a lot of other Lockey products, and they’re low quality. If someone was bypassing it, you would probably know. There would be signs of physical abuse. It’s highly unlikely someone has cloned your fob, but it’s not impossible. I would trust a high quality deadbolt by Medeco or Mul-T-Lock way before I would ever trust a Lockey lock. They are some of the strongest locks on the market, and have pick-resistant pins. Keys can only be duplicated by the locksmith you hire to install it.
I think you’re referring to the ignition lock ears? If they are not staying when pressed on, you’ll have to replace the ignition. A local locksmith should be able to do it easily since I assume you have the working operating key.
Sorry that’s a bit too vague for me to even know what you’re referring to exactly.
It’s very possible! If not me, I have plenty of coworkers who could. You can message me on Twitter: @ATXJoshL
I'm not quite sure what you're asking.
Not quite sure what you’re trying to describe, but if it’s an old lock, maybe you’re asking for a “skeleton key”? You can buy tryout rings online of some common keys that will bypass the lock. Or call a reputable locksmith and they should be able to provide one.
Well that’s about as vague as it gets. If you can send me a photo of the front of the lock and where the plate is missing on Twitter @ATXJoshL, I can probably help you.
I haven’t worked on cars in 10 years. I don’t recall if they do or not, but I am inclined to think they probably do.
Yes, it’s called a “storeroom function” lock. What you’re probably more used to seeing at your local hardware store is “entry” “closet” “bathroom” etc. you need to find one that says “storeroom”. I will say though, that they do not have a button on the inside. It’s ALWAYS locked, but the lever on the INSIDE can also always be turned to allow exiting in case of emergency. If you don’t see it at your hardware store, you can always find them online. Every brand makes them, it all depends how much you want to spend & what quality you need.
Take some wood shims, or cut some little pieces of wood, or some wood toothpicks and put them in the screw holes. Then put the screws back in. That should allow you to tighten up your screws.
I have never heard of that tactic before. Locksmiths typically don’t use brute force to gain entry. If we can’t pick a lock, we usually drill the lock because it can usually be replaced with parts on our vans, or in rare circumstances, at least install a temporary until an exact replacement can be ordered. A good locksmith typically doesn’t do any damage to a door while gaining entry. I would think a soldier in that scenario doesn’t care what damage he does.
Well I haven’t had to answer the phone in over 10 years, but yes, we would get some weird random requests now & then. Seems like they just didn’t pay attention to who they were calling. One time I received a call around midnight from a girl locked out of her car at a hotel. When I told her how much it would be, since she didn’t ask & I didn’t want her to be surprised, she was shocked to find out that we charged for our service, & canceled. ???????????????
Sounds like it needs to be reset. Either it needs to be repaired, which is doubtful unless it was abused, or the combination was improperly set to begin with.
My uncle is a locksmith. He was looking for part time help, & I was looking for a job change. I really had no interest in it otherwise. I was 20. 22 years later, here I am.
Check you manual for a key code written in by the dealer or a previous owner. It’s rare, but it happens. Then I would get a price from a few local locksmiths & the Ford dealer. You can probably get an operating key. If you’re concerned about price, you might have to put the remote on the back burner.
Sorry I’m not familiar with either of those terms in reference to key machines. Maybe it’s used on a type of key cutting machine I’ve never used before. ¯\_(?)_/¯
Why would someone want to do that unless they planned to steal your car? And they would also have to program the key unless your car doesn’t have a chip in it, but most do these days. That sounds very unlikely. That’s a lot of trouble to go through when they could just break a window if they were just looking to steal misc items in the car. Technically yes your remote would still work if you had superglue in your cylinders. If you ever plan on selling the car, I would highly advise against that tactic though. You might be better off going to a locksmith & asking him to break some keys off in your doors. At least that way you could get them pulled back out down the road & reuse your locks.
Sounds like a barrel “skeleton” key. You could either have a locksmith come out and make a key, or bring that lock into a locksmith shop to get a key made. Another option is ordering a ring of “tryout keys” like one listed on this site. I’m sure you could find something else, this is what just came up in a quick google search. https://www.houseofantiquehardware.com/barrel-clock-key
Sorry I’ve never heard of such a thing. Nothing comes up in a google search either.
Unfortunately I don’t work on automotive anymore and haven’t in 11 years. If your key has a chip in it, you may have bought the wrong ignition or may need to get it programmed by a locksmith. When you start dealing with ignition security systems, DIY ignition swaps aren’t as simple as they used to be. Best way to find out is have a locksmith come out, or call a locksmith and give him the year make & model and he should be able to tell you if it had a chip in it. Some years, SOME vehicles came with a chip, & some didn’t. Makes our job frustrating not knowing what we’re walking into, but more so for the customer.
Yeah sure! On Twitter @atxjoshl
Depends on how old your Weslock is. The older Weslock you could use a Kwikset key blank, but they had their own keyway. They have revamped their products as the company has been bought and sold over the years, and today you can get Weslock in both a Schlage and a Kwikset keyway.
If I told you the answer to that, then it would no longer be a secret.
By not getting put in there to begin with.
Of course. We can't unlock everything. At some point, usually when the time spent trying to pick a lock outweighs the cost of drilling/breaking and replacing it; or if a lock has been designed to withstand manipulation, you’re only left with a couple options. Recommend the customer calls someone else of they don’t want you to break & replace something, ask if they can wait for a more experienced tech can come out, or allow us to break it and replace it at an additional cost. Usually they just want to get in, so we tactfully drill it open and replace the damaged parts.
That is strange. I haven’t done automotive work in 12 years, so unfortunately I can’t help. If you’ve already taken it to a locksmith, I would have to say the dealer would be your next option before wasting any more money on more fobs or locksmiths. Sounds like there is a bigger problem. Sometimes aftermarket fobs can be junk depending on where they are purchased, but I would bet the locksmith probably ordered from a respectable distributor.
Locksmith pricing varies quite a bit by market. I can only guess $100 to $200? A locksmith should be able to quote you over the phone for that a pretty accurate price. If they give you some BS like “starts at $25” call someone else. There’s a lot of scammer locksmith services who hire subcontractors and they get paid by commission based on what they charge you.
I have been asking myself that for 20 years. I didn’t pursue this job, it basically fell in my lap. I said I would do it until I found something I really wanted to do. Still waiting...
I’m sorry it doesn’t work that simply. It’s the same as if I handed you a $20 bill and wrote on it “do not accept this”. It’s up to the cashier if they want to take it or not. It’s the same with a key that says “do not duplicate”. If the guy at Walmart wants to copy it, he can copy it. At our locksmith shops, we copy them, but usually make people sign a waiver releasing all liability on us.
If you want key control I’d recommend 2 options. 1. Install a keypad lock and don’t give your tenant the key. Give them a code. If they move out, reset it the code. 2. Install high security locks with true restricted patented keys. It will cost $125-200 per lock, $15-20 per key, but that’s the price you pay for a patented key system.
No idea, I never hear from them. Kind of just do this to help people out. I don’t even get any kickback by doing this.
Well there's no magic tricks. You can buy a tryout set of common "skeleton keys" online, see if one of them works; or take it to a local lock shop and let them either make a key or open it.
Well I would stay away from EZ Set, they're garbage. Apparently they have gotten to be harder to find as well. Assuming you're talking about a long pull handle with a thumb button, every model of every brand is a different length. I would go with Schlage or Kwikset. Much better quality. I I believe it's Schlage that makes them with an adjustable bottom post. That way you're not stuck having to find one that matches up perfectly, it will actually slide up and down to accommodate 1-2 inch differences. It should tell you the range it covers on the box. So measure your door from the center of the 2-1/8" hole to the center of the bottom hole. However, if you're replacing the deadbolt as well, EZ Set uses a Kwikset keyway, and Schlage uses a Schlage keyway. So you wouldn't be able to rekey it to your existing key, you would just have a separate key for your front door. Otherwise, you will have to find a Kwikset handle that matches close enough.
We don’t offer that service at our company.
Try squirting some WD40 into your trunk lock, run the key in and out of the lock a bunch of times. Locks get corroded fairly quickly when they are not used.
Aside from that, you could have a locksmith come out or you can go into a shop. They can get in 1 way or another. Worst case, drill out the lock & replace it.
Not sure what you mean by “needing a certain amount of cuts”. I haven’t done any automotive in 12 years. In fact, it got to be such a pain, the company I work for even quit doing mobile automotive work. Seems like locksmiths either go full in automotive, or none at all. It takes a lot of resources and money due to expensive machines and services. Also, more and more car manufacturers are doing proprietary keys and fobs leaving locksmiths with no options. This is a big disservice to customers, because it means keys will cost a fortune.
Most of the time they just bring those to walk-in shops. But there has been a few situations where it was a chest, armoire, small safe, something like that.
No, you can’t program any key for any car using the vin. There is nothing in a vin that tells you anything about the key.
Learning to project manage 2 new construction jobs at the same time where we provided the doors, frames, & hardware (and installation on 1 of them) with no guidance because my mgr quit at the beginning of the job. Hardly knew anything about doors & frames, OR project managing a construction job, had to learn it all on my own. It was the most stressful few months of my life.
You didn’t mention the brand, but it sounds like a common Kwikset problem. Usually just replacing the latch will fix it. Kwikset also has a common problem where the screws back out on the inside of the handleset. Take it apart very slowly. Buy a replacement latch, and put it all back together. Should be good to go.
Model-specific automotive questions because I haven’t done automotive work in 12 years. My answer will usually be the same. Call a local locksmith or go to the dealer. There’s not much people can do on their own when it comes to car locks. It’s complicated and requires a lot of specialty tools and information.
Not sure what you mean, but when a lock is rekeyed, the internal pins are removed and replaced with different pins to match the new set of keys. No other hardware or parts of the lock are usually replaced.
For some reason that link didn’t open up a product. And since I don’t know what your existing key is, I would need to know that before I can even answer your question. Feel free to text me pictures or links- (737) 757-0004
It sounds like an older mortise lock. Most modern mortise locks are 8” x 1-1/4”. You’re not going to find something that easily retrofits into the door prep you have. You could have a locksmith fresh install a deadbolt above your mortise lock if your condo will allow it. Otherwise, there just aren’t very many options for the residential mortise lock platform. Look up Yale Nextouch. They make a smart locks with a mortise prep, but it won’t fit in your door as is. You’ll have to have it modified. Also check with your bldg Mgmt before you do anything, I have seen some of them have strict rules what they will let tenants do to maintain uniformity.
I think most deadbolts have a range of 1-3/8” to 1-3/4” thick doors. I would recommend going to schlage.com or kwikset.com & looking at their electronic deadbolts, look at the Specifications section on the product page. It should tell you the door thickness range. If it’s any thinner than 1-3/8”, it won’t work. You would need some kind of spacer to space out the lock on both sides of the door. I personally think Schlage makes a better lock than Kwikset.
Certain locksmiths can remake the fob & keys; as well as the dealer.
I’m not a lawyer, and locksmiths don’t request tax forms when they unlock doors. They usually have you sign a waiver of some kind stating that you have the legal right to have them perform that service, and they collect a drivers license. At that point it’s between you and whoever else may legally have the right to be there. However, I know there are laws pertaining to when a property OWNER can and can not enter a rental unit, and the law is usually on the renters side, not the owners side due to privacy concerns.
Yes, companies make special extended latch kits. You can usually get any knob you want as long as that company makes a compatible latch. Take a measuring tape and hook it to the edge of your door (where the latch comes out of the edge of the door). Measure over to the center of your door knob. That is what size latch you need.
You might be able to reuse the current latch and just replace the knob itself. If you read the latch face, there should be a brand written on it.
Sorry that really doesn’t give me the info I would need. Those sound like internal codes. If you’re able to send me photos on twitter, I could probably help you. @ATXJoshL
Your landlord Is correct. Every apartment’s locks are keyed different, but the building entry doors are master keyed to allow multiple keys to access them. It’s basic master keying.
I’m not familiar with an E-series Corbin lock, especially one with square knobs. Here is a list of Corbin’s discontinued products, maybe you can narrow it down. There are product catalogs, installation guides, etc. https://www.corbinrusswin.com/en/library/discontinued-literature/As for the keyway, it’s impossible to say. There isn’t usually 1 keyway per lock series. Commercial locks can be ordered with various keyways.
Thankfully no not me; however my previous boss had a situation where a customer called him out to open a business and after he left they robbed it. We are required to collect driver license, customer information, etc, so cops had no problem catching them. Dumb criminals.
Yea it’s possible it’s a different lock. Management might know something about it, or it’s always possible you have the wrong key, or someone open & replaced it with another padlock. Lots of possibilities really. Mgmt might have a way to cut the padlocks off, or you can hire a locksmith to pick the lock or cut/drill it off.
I wish I knew what brand it was. You probably put it together wrong. Could be why you can’t get it apart too.
If you’re in an apartment, shouldn’t the management company be responsible for fixing your locks if someone is vandalizing it? Usually apartment buildings have strict rules for what they will let you do with your locks. If they will let you, you can get an electronic keypad deadbolt without a key hole. They’re made by Schlage, model # BE375.
“Do not duplicate” is nothing more than an honor system. It’s can be a normal every day house key with the words “do not duplicate” stamped on it. Some go as far as to have different key heads, or “bows”. At that point it’s up to the person working at the store on whether they want to duplicate the key or not. True key control is done through a patented key system such as Medeco M3, Schlage Primus, or Mul-T-Lock. Some require special machines to cut the keys, some don’t.
Unfortunately don’t know anything about remote starts. Locksmiths don’t work on those very often.
Hey Adam. Any automotive locksmith should be able to help you. They should be able to pick it open and make a key to it. Worst case, they get it unlocked and you order a new one from the dealer/manufacturer.
1 thing I would recommend trying first is it’s possible there is pressure on the lock itself, which can prevent the key from turning. Push in on the panel with 1 hand while you turn the key with the other hand. Letting that pressure off might do the trick. If that doesn’t work, it’s possible they either sent you the wrong keys or installed the wrong lock.
You say it’s too big for the door. How so? Is your door too thin? If so, you need adapter plates. That’s going to be the case for any equivalent. If your door has a different backset, say 2-3/8” instead of 2-3/4”, you either need to adjust the deadbolt latch, or purchase the correct backset. Depends on brand. If the hole in your door is 1-1/2” in cross bore, you need to get it drilled out to a 2-1/8”. Those high security deadbolts have some flexibility, but not a ton. They are pretty particular as to how they fit, and they’re all pretty similar.
I’m sorry, that is not enough information to go off of. HHL isn’t a brand I’m familiar with. If you want to see if you can salvage it, take it to a walk-in lock shop, they might be able to make a key to it. I would ask them for a price first, it might not be worth your money depending on what the worth is of the box. I would guess if they can do it, the cost would be around $30.
My uncle needed some help, a part time employee. I was ready for a career change so I tried it out. Eventually that turned into full time. I said I would do it until I found something better...still here!
Depending on the cylinder, the pins/wafers should able to be removed from the cylinder and have it used the way you are asking. If it’s a cam lock like what you would see on a cabinet, they sell thumb turn style cam locks.
You should have just purchased a new deadbolt, it’s much easier for a homeowner rather than trying to replace the cylinder. It sounds like you purchased a rim cylinder. The tailpieces on rim cylinders only turn when the key is turned. Tubular deadbolts, such as residential, use what’s called a “lazy tailpiece”. It turns 180 degrees, or so, independently of the key. Depending on which brand and model your deadbolt is, chances are more than likely you can’t just replace the cylinder like you’re thinking anyway. I would highly recommend returning or discarding the cylinder, and just purchasing a replacement deadbolt instead.
Never
Usually those door knobs are screwed onto the spindle. Once you take out the setscrew on the edge of the knob, you should just be able to unscrew the whole door knob. The square shaft that goes through the door is actually threaded like a giant screw.
Yes, one time a customer locked their keys in the car. My boss unlocked it. He got a block down the road, and they called him back, they did it again. He went back & unlocked the car again for free. Left, they called him AGAIN. He went back and charged them.
As a tech, I would have said the easiest thing to do is residential rekey jobs, the hardest and thing I hated the most was automotive work. Having your arm buried in a door panel in 100 degrees sitting in the sun trying to dig a door lock out; or laying on a customers dirty floorboard working on their ignition. It was the worst.
Love the most, probably all the amazing different places I have been and people I’ve had the opportunity to meet.
I have no idea what you’re referring to, as I haven’t worked on cars in 12 years, but I would say if the key works and it turns, it’s probably fine. If it doesn’t work, it’s probably broken. It shouldn’t break that easily. ¯\_(?)_/¯
Nothing special. Unlock the door and have the business or homeowner put in their code to deactivate the alarm. If it’s an eviction or something where the occupant isn’t there, wait for the police and have the customer/bank rep explain what is going on.
Nope, it’s all just proper management and mental hurdles.
I wonder the same thing all the time. I have moved into project management, and our company now covers a lot more than just locks. We do commercial doors & frames, glass, aluminum storefronts now too, so I help manage a lot of those big projects now. It’s almost like a career change.
Pry it open with some big pry bars, throw it in the trash & buy a better safe. They are not worth much more than that unfortunately. They’re plastic, pop metal, & sheet metal. The cost to have a locksmith professionally open it with expensive tools, & try to repair it would cost you more than buying a brand new safe.
Haha you must watch a lot, can’t say I’ve ever even heard of locksmith porn. I had a woman ask me to have sex with her once, but I turned her down. She was going through a really hard time & was looking for affection. That’s not the kind of person I am to take advantage of someone like that. I doubt I would lose my job if it wasn’t interfering with work. ¯\_(?)_/¯ Is 2 contenting adults having sex legal? Pretty sure.
When you say electronic locks, I am picturing all the hundreds of products currently on the market that either take batteries or are hardwired. You’ll have to be more specific.
You could try putting it into the lock position, push the detent, and then put it into the unlock position and try the detent. That might do it. If it’s still not coming off, you may have to punch it with a flat head screwdriver and hammer. It’s quite possible it could break it, but it’s probably broken already. I highly recommend sticking with a name brand lock like Kwikset, Schlage, Dexter, Master, etc.
Yes, there is a C clip on the back of the core. Pop that clip off, and SLIGHTLY twist it. Doing so will put retention on the plug. That should fix your issue.
Not sure what you mean by the “inside depth“. Feel free to text me if you’d like further help. (737) 757-0004
Yes, put some blue (medium strength) Loctite on the threads of the cylinder. Thread it into the door and get it positioned exactly where you want it, then don’t touch it for a couple hours while it dries. That should do it. I’ve done this in a pinch in the past when I couldn’t repair a mortise lock as a PERMANENT solution. Never had a recall on it. It’s not AS secure as the screw, but 99% of thieves are not even going to attempt to unscrew a mortise cylinder. Most wouldn’t even know it’s able to be unscrewed. They break windows & kick in doors.
If you’d like to text me a photo, I can see if I can identify it. (737) 757-0004
Just to get the obvious out of the way, insert a flat head screwdriver into the tailpiece hole and turn it. Try to open your door and shake it as you do it just in case it might be pinched. If that doesn’t work, it could be a broken bolt. You will need to basically rip the latch bolt apart from the inside. Eventually you will remove the blockage and the bolt will pull back. Sometimes it can take a while.
Assuming it’s too suck to use a strong magnet, but if not, I would try that. Aside from that, there aren’t many options for a homeowner due to the restricted space. Locksmiths have special tools to pull out broken keys or things like this, sometimes we have to drill out the lock and replace it depending on how bad it’s stuck. I would call a locksmith.
I wish I could answer that for you. I have never programmed a fob in my life. However I know all 3 of our shops do it and we run into SO many problems with aftermarket fobs that people buy online, we quit offering a warranty for fobs bought online. We realize that they are more expensive to buy them locally, but at least the lock shop owns the whole project at that point, so if something goes wrong, there is 1 party responsible. Now, you’re stuck wondering who’s to blame. I don’t think you’re going to come out ahead on this one unless the shop is willing to try to reprogram it. If not, you could ask them if you can buy a fob through them and program at it for you at no additional charge. You would be out of the cost for the one you bought online, but at least you’d have a working fob & know how to deal with it in the future.
I would seek out local locksmiths and see if anyone is hiring, or willing to hire, an apprentice. The pay probably won’t be good for a new hire, but better pay will come with time. Locksmiths are hard to find, so if someone is mechanically inclined, and trains well, they will be happy to teach you.
Call a locksmith and they might do if if you can show them the receipt from the title transfer, bill of sale, etc. They will also probably ask for a drivers license and have you sign a waiver.
Sounds like you’re going to have to drill out the lock, stick a screwdriver into the cabinet & manipulate the linkage behind the cam lock. My guess is the nut that holds the linkage to the back of the cam lock probably worked it’s way loose & fell off. Depending what the cabinet is worth, might be a good idea to ask a locksmith to do it. If you bring it in to a shop, they can probably drill & replace it. You can try it yourself, but you risk hitting the linkage & doing further damage. Like I said, depending on it’s worth, might be worth trying yourself to save money.
I believe what you’re describing is called a multi-point lock system. They’re made by various companies, the most popular is Hoppe. Since the systems are made to fit the door, & there are so many different variations, they have to be surveyed by a tech, and special ordered.
Yes that is correct, and you can go to a locksmith, and I would assume most Ford dealers should be able to do it as well, but shop around because a locksmith might be cheaper and be able to do it at your location, which saves you a tow.
I believe an automotive locksmith should be able to make a key for you.
Wish I could help, but I haven’t worked on cars in 15 years. However, usually car keys are a lot more complicated than just swapping out a cylinder. Usually there is programming that needs to be done. My guess is you still need to take your car to the dealer, or call a locksmith to come out & program your vehicle.
No and no. You will have to get a locksmith to come out.
Contact Otofix?
I would assume yes. You could search for a compatible lock at Strybuc.com, or if you know the manufacturer of the door, you may be able to get one from them or through a distributor who sells that brand.
Yes you can. A locksmith has special tools to pull that broken key out without damaging the function of the lock in most cases.
Take it to a locksmith & they can pull it out for you. Should be very inexpensive.
Unfortunately I am not sure what part you’re talking about. I am not familiar with a threaded sleeve in a Medeco lock; but as long as you have all of the internals springs & pins you should be fine.
You can install a latch guard to cover the gap between the jamb and the door. Or, if the lock is installed and adjusted correctly, you can’t pull the latch back. It’s designed to lock the latch in the extended position. https://youtu.be/x0Rl_j-xJhY?si=3paMiQhzjrwwkxnE
Unfortunately I can’t say for sure. I haven’t done automotive work in 16 years, but typically yes, anything you get replaced that’s related to the security system, needs to be reprogrammed to the key or car.
You will probably have to get your computer reprogrammed. Gotta love new cars.
Depends on your area and who you hire. Could be $75 to $250 depending on what needs to be done. It’s impossible for me to say what needs to be done to gain entry without seeing your setup and being there. Every job is different, & this is a special situation.
Yes it will be a problem. You can just install some plates to make up the difference. They make adapter plates for this very purpose, unless it’s a unique footprint, you may have to custom make some plates.
Yes mgmt will know you tried to use your fob. There is an audit trail even if it doesn’t let you in. They are the ones who have to deactivate it unless it expires on its own.
Go to your local locksmith, they can usually come out to you and do that on site. Or go to the dealer.
There are a lot of components that goes into the set up you are talking about. It’s very difficult to interpret what you’re trying to do exactly, I’m not sure you’re using the correct terminology. This set up consist of a special type of push bar that has a switch in it, a mag lock, power supply, some form of card reader, fingerprint reader etc. I would highly recommend hiring a professional as this is something that needs to be designed & installed correctly. There are also local codes that restrict usage of mag locks in some areas, or require special permits for installation of these.
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