I've been a locksmith since 1998. I've done automotive, lots of residential, and now mostly commercial work. Used to locksmith in the Chicago area, now the Austin area.
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I'm sorry to say, but our Industry has been saturated with phony locksmiths. There are national companies that subcontract people and pay them by commission. When you called that locksmith, you were probably talking to someone in call center in another state. They quote you the base price, and when the subcontractor comes to you he quotes you however much he wants to make. This is not typical for a 24 hour locksmith. I've worked for two companies in the 13 years I've been a locksmith. Both of them were 24 hours, and we never did anything like that. These phony locksmiths put a bunch of ads online and in the phone book to make themselves look local. They even have fake Company names, they use local addresses that go to peoples houses and other businesses, so people think they're calling a local company. I recommend that you find one or two reputable local locksmiths and store the number in your phone.
I think if it was illegal, they probably wouldn't be able to sell them. I think they have to give that disclaimer so they can sell them legally. I never had to buy them online or sell them, so I'm no expert on the subject, that is just my opinion.
Not to break in, no. My boss at my last job let someone into a business they didn't own, but since he had gotten all the proper documentation, he wasn't liable. They were caught though. I had an old man call me out to change the locks on a house once, & after I got there I could tell he wasn't all there. Turned out it wasn't even his house! It was a friend's who was in the other room. She came out & said she didn't even want me to do it, but he insisted she did. It was 9 oclock at night, I didn't feel like dealing with it so I just walked out.
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I broken into a few safes, & bypassed more deadbolts than I can count. Unfortunately no exciting stories. I did manage to get a door open that had a multi-point lock system installed that broke in the locked position. Not fun!
I have never seen any tools designed to specifically unlock the chain locks. I would assume the reason would be that they're not difficult to cut and easy and cheap to replace.
I ended up dating a girl who's car I unlocked. Another time, a lady who was going through a rough time straight up asked me to have sex with her! I declined and left as fast as I could.
There are no magic tricks. No blanket recommendation for breaking in a car. Too many cars require different methods. I can give you advice on how to PREPARE for it! Either sign up for a AAA membership ($50 a year which includs 3 free car openings) OR buy a small combo lock box & install it under your car. Only takes 2 screws. Just don't screw it into your gas tank. ;-)
I used to a lot. For really close friends, I just did it for free unless they wanted to tip me. And then friends of friends started calling. I would just charge them a flat $20.
Your best bet is to have one bookmarked before you actually need one. Get referrals from friends, check the Better Business Bureau, Chamber of Commerce, and keep your eyes open for actual brick and mortar lock shops in your area. A lot of phonies will list an address online or in the yellow pages, but it will be fake. The fakes use local numbers that redirect to a national call center. They hire local contractors who will upcharge you once (if) they show up. LOTS of scammers out there.
You should never pay that kind of money to have a locksmith open a car or house that takes 5-10 minutes. Prices vary depending on where you live, but that's ridiculous! They're ripping you off. You are being taken advantage of. There are some nationwide companies who hire subcontractors to work on commission. They quote people a small rate on the phone (which they're most likely in another state), & then the contractor charges whatever he wants to make. They use local phone numbers & fake addresses to make themselves look local. If you're ever quoted a price on the phone, ask the tech what the price will before he does any work. If it's not the same, or if he tries to add more without warning after the job is over, refuse to pay & call the police. He's probably trying to rip you off. It should always make sense. Obviously emergency calls in the middle of the night will be more expensive.
People getting their locks picked by burglars is very rare. What you should be more concerned about is making sure you have good strong strike plates on your jambs with long screws that go into the studs. If you're concerned about your locks being picked or drilled, then sure, buy Medeco or Mul-T-Lock deadbolts. They're awesome. They will cost you $200+ per lock. I think the majority of burglars are looking for an easier way in. Kicking the door in or breaking a window.
You can start a car by crossing wires on old cars, but you still can't just drive off. Steering wheels are locked & turning the key unlocks the wheel. Locksmiths don't do that anyways. We just make keys for the cars. Most newer vehicles have a chip in the key or the ignition. That security chip is required in order for the car to start, & every car's chip is different. That was designed to prevent people from "hot wiring" cars.
No, some keys that say "do not duplicate" is just a deterrent. It's simply an honor system. It's telling you that whoever gave you that key would prefer you didn't make a copy of it. It's up to the person copying it if they want to do it or not. Our shop makes you sign a waiver just to cover out butts. Other keys that say it might be covered by a patent. The blank might not even be available to them, that's called a restricted key. Mostly Medeco, Mul-T-Lock, Primus, etc, most of those are truly restricted.
No lock is guaranteed, but some are easier to pick, or cut with bolt cutters. The goal is to make it as difficult as possible; so getting something so thick that you'll need an angle grinder to cut it off would probably be your best bet.
I think that you're probably right about that. My first boss always told me that I would probably see the end of mechanical locks in my day. I think we have 20-30 years before we see it trickle down to lower & middle class due to the cost of it. Obviously it's currently being use regularly in office bldgs everywhere, but the cost is $800+ a door. So they have a ways to go before we see the price drop low enough and have products designed simple enough for the mechanically-inclined homeowner to install it himself. They already have touch-screen deadbolts, remote control deadbolts, & obviously regular keypad deadbolts. Generally the reason businesses want to eliminate keys is for more control. Audit trails, easy & costly elimination of a fired employee, lots of benefits really; but not a lot for residential reasons other than convenience. Which is why we prob won't see it for quite a while, & mostly in high end home with home automation.
Honestly, I don't think I've ever seen 10-pin tubular lock, but that doesn't mean they don't exist. They're just not very common. I suppose you could just count the pins since you can see them plain as day.
The first thing I'd try is squirting some high quality lubricant in there. Not WD40, and not graphite. Vehicle door locks get dry or corrode quickly, especially if you rarely use it. Secondly, I'd look at your key. If it's bent or a bad copy (possibly not visible to the untrained eye), that is very possibly the problem. A lock shop should be able to read & cut you a new factory-spec key. Past that, it's internal lock damage.
We don't count on tips, but they're always appreciated! ;-) Personally, any time I have service work done at MY house, I always try to tip at least five dollars if I have it. If nothing else, offer them something to drink. I'm shocked at how many people don't do either.
School or work for someone: I've seen a lot of new locksmiths start businesses and fail because they weren't experienced, and were terrible at running a business. Personally, I would say work for someone for a while, learn the business, make mistakes on someone else's dollar, figure out what you like and don't like about the way they do things, and get comfortable approaching almost any lock situation. THEN start your own company. Pay: First of all, it totally depends on the going rates in your area. It varies quite a bit. You'll have to be doing auto for quite a while and get really good (making keys and servicing ignitions and door locks) before you'll make good money. Luckily, a lot of locksmiths hate auto work (like myself even though I did it for 10 years). There isn't much money in residential work. It's all in commercial work.
Big box stores charge less because they are able to get blanks for so cheap because they buy such a large bulk. It's also an inexpensive opportunity to get you INTO the store in hopes that you'll buy something ELSE while you're there. Most mobile locksmiths probably charge $2-3. Our company charges $2.85 per.
It may have been miscut or something. I can't help much more than that. If the locksmith charged you, I'd take it back to that locksmith, he must have made a mistake. You could try to get your money back and go to another locksmith.
It's possible that he used the wrong blank, or maybe the blank is bent or twisted. According to my records, the key blank should be: m-4, 1092V, MS9R, 81KR. Those are different part numbers for the same blank by different manufacturers. Check the key for that part number, if it's different, that might be a ref flag. Some keys don't have any part number on them though. I'd take it back to that locksmith.
Like I said in a previous post, it really depends on the area you live in. During regular business ours, it can range anywhere from $25 to $100. After hours, anywhere from $50 to $150. Hiring a reputable company makes a big difference as well. You might be quoted a little bit more on the phone, but the price will stay the same when the job is complete. There's a lot of shady companies who will quote you a low price on the phone, but the technician will jack up the price after the job is complete. It never hurts to double check the price when the technician arrives!
They're not easy, I'll tell you that! They put pick-resistant pins in there, most of the time, we end up cutting them off.
Without knowing the details of the story, judging by your side of the story alone, it's definitely theft!! First off they can't charge you for something you didn't agree to pay for. Secondly, it's YOUR lock & keys, so that is definitely not right.
Some of these hack "locksmiths" will quote you a low price on the phone (you're usually talking to someone in a call center in another state), then they send an independent contractor out who works on commission. They usually don't know what they're doing & try to charge an arm & a leg. Sound accurate? I'd call the police if you're confident in your story. That's not right!
That series is bringing up 2 different things made by CR- exit bars & Unit locks. Which are you working on? And a when you say "clip" are you referring to a snap ring?
Yes you can. It should be fairly inexpensive. The dealer can do it, as well as a lot of locksmith. From what I remember, you shouldn't even need to recut any keys. They will need both of your keys to do it though.
If you've never taken a door panel off, take your time, look for hidden screws, and what doesn't screw on, snaps on.
Honestly, you're probably best off taking the lock to the dealer or a locksmith and either getting it rebuilt, or get a complete new one. They get very corroded when they don't get regular use. It's usually not a matter of just cleaning it out. Plus there may be pieces you'll have to replace.
If you mean a copy of an existing key, probably $10-20 if you take it to a locksmith. If you're saying that you don't have a key, $150-350. Lots of variables, & different areas differ in rates.
I've worked on Unit Locks before, but not this specific one I don't think. From what I've read, you have to pry it out with a small screwdriver. Unfortunately I don't know any secret tricks without seeing one in person. Not sure if this would be easier, but there's a tool I've used for 15 years that has been SO useful. It's a red-handled 90 degree ice pick. it has the name Carolina Roller on the side.
It sounds like you have a mortise lock (8" long plate on the edge of the door held on with 2 screws? If so, that's the way they're designed and you can't change that. You could install a deadbolt above it. Granted the cat would still open the main lock, but at least the door would stay secure.
I'm sorry, I got out of making keys for cars about 5 years ago. I don't know the answer to that question. You may want to try hooking jumper cables up to the car & let it charge for a bit. Every once in a while that was an issue.
Sure! It's possible. I've never seen it done, but I'm sure someone could figure out a way to do it.
I've never seen a Corbin multipoint lock in person, just a diagram of one online, but from what I can tell, this is a completely different animal. There are many reasons why it might not be unlocking, and destroying it to get it open might not be necessary or work the same way. I hate to say it, but your best bet would be to find an experienced locksmith who would be willing to tackle this project, but be prepared to spend some money in the off-chance it's not repairable, I'm sure these aren't cheap.
Depends on the brand. if it's a mechanical one the code will have to be either decoded by a professional or physically taken apart & reset. If it's electronic, some will have a button on the inside by the batteries that will allow you to program a new code. Schlage has a yellow sticker on the inside of theirs (behind the outside part of the lock) with the factory program & user codes. If the previous owner didn't change the program code, you're good to go.
Those are usually locks you can't just go out and "buy a key" for. Stay on your parent's good side, do as you're told/asked; and after they build up trust in you, they'll unlock it for you and life will be much more pleasant.
1 time I had to unlock a house for a guy who had a relative recently pass away, and nobody had a key to the house. The relative had a stroke and hit his head on the sink. After I opened the door, I saw a pool of blood coming out of the bathroom where he had died.
I've also had a lot of customers who think either everyone, certain neighbors, or the government is after them. So they end up paying us to put multiple high security pick and drill resistant deadbolts on their doors (interior and exterior). Naturally, the problem doesn't stop because they are senile. They complain about things being moved, or silly things missling like clothes, silverware, pictures, etc.
Is the English really that bad on the card? With something as particular as safe combination, you're going to have to give me exactly what the card says word for word.
I've never started a locksmith business or been in the decision making process of that. As far as choosing which key blanks to stock, maybe once you find a distributor who regularly ships to your area, you can ask him which key blanks he sells a lot of to other locksmiths in your area. Another idea is you could always go into a local hardware store that cuts keys and ask them which keys they cut the most of.
This is the 2nd 1 I've seen like this. They're definitely going to get more popular, but I think we still have a ways to go before a majority will move away from a standard key. I have found that most people don't care about the few extra seconds they'll save by not having to use keys, & it's not worth the extra cost for a small convenience. Personally I love it & can't wait to see what's next!
If you still have both halves of the key, you should be able to take it into a lock shop and they should be able to cut you a new one for under $20 (make an extra copy this time). If you don't, and need someone to come out, as long as it's a reputable locksmith, I would assume it won't be much more than $150. Really depends on where you live though. Prices fluctuate quite a bit around the country.
Depending on how bad the keyway is, you could try hammering the key into the keyway. If that's not an option, if a drill can access the padlock, maybe it can be drilled out. Those can be tricky though.
That's not really a question I can answer. It all depends on the laws in the state you live in and on the owner of the lock shop whether he wants to take the time to train someone your age, etc.
Sounds like you're using a combination lever handle. Maybe get a combo deadbolt instead? Schlage makes the best residential combo deadbolts on the market in my opinion.
Yes you can key them alike, but you'll have to use the 5-pin keys, not the 6. A 6-pin key won't work a 5-pin lock properly.
Sorry to hear, that's frustrating. Yes, you should be able to take that whole 6-digit code to a walk-in locksmith & get a key cut. You're right, the whole code isn't usually used. That price sounds like they are coming out to YOU to make the key. Sounds pretty high to me, unless it has a chip in the key or it has side-milling on it. If they still quote you that much even if you're taking it to them, check with ordering it from Honda.
Try bringing it to a well established locksmith shop. They usually have a lot of old skeleton keys laying around. They can try them & see if 1 fits.
You local locksmith might be able to pick or drill it open. You might have to buy a new safe after that. Luckily it's a cheap safe.
Ok, try this...
Turn the dial COUNTER-CLOCKWISE and pass the number 40 three times and stop on it the 4rd time.
Turn the dial CLOCKWISE and pass the number 60 twice and stop on it the 3rd time.
Turn the dial COUNTER-CLOCKWISE and pass the number 10 once and stop on it the 2nd time.
Turn the dial CLOCKWISE until it stops. If the dial stops, you've entered it correctly and the handle should turn. Try this a few times. The devil's in the details!! Let me know what happens.
Yes if you can buy a batch of different skeleton keys, try that. They come in all different sizes & shapes, you'll probably find 1 that will worK if you try enough. Worst case scenario, call or bring it into a well-established lock shop. They should have a lot to try as well. They can also be custom made using blanks, but not a lot of locksmiths do that these days.
Well Kwikset & Schlage are definitely the most common, but some others I run across are Baldwin, Emtek, Dexter, & Weiser. Medeco & Mul-T-Lock are high security locks, but I wouldn't say they're "common".
Not quite sure what you're asking. If you need a copy of a key, try your local walk-in locksmith shop. Just because it says USPS doesn't mean it's restricted or anything. A local shop should have it or should be able to get it.
I think working for another well-rounded locksmith for at least 5-10 years would give you enough training to start a locksmith business. Why not get paid to learn the trade? Otherwise you'll spend all your time learning instead of making money. This is 1 of those jobs where most of what you learn, you'll learn in the field. ALOA puts on a lot of classes, there are online classes, & there's always Youtube!
There's no easy solution to a corroded & possibly stripped Allen set screw. If you're replacing it anyways, may as well drill the sucker out! Don't be afraid to go a little bigger than the hole. Use a new bit, otherwise you'll get frustrated quickly when you're not getting anywhere.
That's a hard question to answer since I don't know what area you live in. I believe Pop-a-lock does subcontacting & they're nationwide. There aren't many though.
It all depends what you are locking up, who you are locking out, & where this cabinet is. If you want it to look nice & you're keeping out non-aggressive people, definitely a cam lock. If it's in your garage and you want it to be harder to open requiring obvious damage, go with a padlock & hasp.
Absolutely not. There are still too many people who can't afford it, don't care about the convenience, don't like electronic technology, etc. Honestly, I kind of doubt manual locks will ever completely be obsolete. The demand just isn't there. Yes, there are already quite a few different options on the market, but they're still pretty expensive.
Unfortunately yes you have to replace the entire desdbolt. There are a few replacement parts needed for the conversion, & manufacturers just don't sell conversion kits. But hey, look on the bright side, if you just bought your house, you need to rekey your locks anyways, so you're killing 2 birds with 1 stone!
Personally, I don't think a certificate is going to make much difference. A locksmith company wants a good employment record, a good driving record, & an excellent background check.they are generally either looking for an experienced locksmith, or a very reliable new locksmith who trains very easily and is willing to start out at a low wage. They want to know what you can do, & what you're capable of & willing to learn. A certificate doesn't mean much. Real world experience is everything because we learn something new every day at this job.
Up until just recently (so I hear), Best products weren't available to locksmiths. Guess their sales have been down & they're trying to expand their market. I hear nothing but complaints about them. Good luck with that tool.
It's so hard to say without being there & seeing it in person, but the key could be not cut perfect, spacing could be off, key could be old & wore out,
Anywhere from $150 to $350. Hard to say. it varies so much depending on city, area, & locksmith.
Whichever locks you have the key numbers to, yes, you can get a key cut to those specific locks using the numbers. It will probably be more expensive than a standard duplicate key, but it's very doable.
Sorry for the late response, this question slipped through the cracks. By blank vintage key, do you mean skeleton key? I'm not quite sure what you mean, but your best bet for anything vintage would be to find a lock shop that has been around a LONG time. They usually have old blanks, & are familiar with anything you'd consider vintage.
Well yes if the strike isn't lined up correctly with the latch. You could just pull it up because the latch isn't falling into the hole. If you have a sliding door, those hook bolts are spring loaded. So you can throw the hook bolt & it feels the same whether it goes into the hole or not.
Yes very possible. Could be 1 of 2 problems. 1- the lock needs repairing or replacing. The latch (springy part that pops out of the edge of the door) maybe sometimes not pop out all the way. 2- the latch may not line up properly with the strike on the jamb. It may not be falling into the hole every time. Weather, building shift, poor installation, & stretched out hinges can all effect that.
Not really. The only way to save some money would be to take the door lock out & take the whole car to a lock shop so they don't have to come to you, but that's just not practical. I'd just call around & get price quotes. Even ask the dealer. Then ask the technician again for the price before they get started once on site. Nobody likes suprises.
I'd go to a tire shop & see if another manufacturer's key might work. It's not a locksmith job. If that doesn't work, take a socket that barely fits over the lug nut & pound it on with a hammer. It will destroy the socket, but should be tight enough to wrench it off. (I've had this happen to me before too)
That is true. It's very common with new housing projects. I have seen contractors returning to the home on their lunch breaks while the homeowners are gone. If you feel like they're still coming in somehow, get your house rekeyed.
Hard to say but most likely yes. A locksmith should be able to make a key, if nothing else, at least get it open for you.
Hard to say without seeing the door. If he didn't tell you while he was there that it would be difficult to operate for whatever reason, then yes he should fix it. Generally, a deadbolt should never be that hard to operate. It sounds to me like the bolt isn't lined up with the strike hole.
Maybe a spring clip? I'm not sure, I don't think I've ever heard the name of it. Either way, you should be able to use either the nut or the spring clip.
Most likely your lock was masterkeyed. When you picked it 180 degrees, a master pin probably fell into the keyhole. If you're renting, you will need to have your landlord have his locksmith come out & fix it. If it's your own house, you'll need to take the deadbolt off, take it into a lock shop, & they will remove the stuck pin & probably have to rekey it back to your key.
If you had the plug in your hand, you'll see 6 brass wafers. 5 are matched to the cuts of your key, & the one all the way at the end by the tip of your key is called a "retainer". That is what holds the plug inside its housing. The spring or wafer may be wore out. You probably need to replace the whole plug. A locksmith can order those, or you may be able to buy it online. To reinstall it correctly, you'll need to put your key into the plug, & on the back of the plug you'll see it has a rectangular drive. If you look into the housing you'll see a female rectangular shape. The plug seems like it could go in 2 ways, but it actually will only go in 1 way. If after you've pushed the plug in, if it's sticking out an 1/8" or more, you have it in wrong. Flip it 180 degrees & try again. If you have it in correctly, it should only be sticking out about 1/16" of an inch. Hold the plug & pull your key out. You'll need a stiff paper clip or something similar to reach into the far back of the plug & pull that retainer back as you push on the plug. It should fall in once you've pulled that retainer back. Once seated correctly, it will be flush.
Take a drill bit the same thickness as the screw, or slightly bigger, & drill the stripped screw as if you were trying to drill a hole right down the center of it. You really only need to drill enough to get the head of the screw off.
Absolutely not. In fact I dont know many who have been to school for locksmithing. Most people apprentice. Sometimes it's knowing the right person, sometimes it's finding a shop who wants to hire cheap labor & train you.
I haven't opened 1 in quite a while, & you also didn't say which year the car was, but I know there's a few cars that automatically relock after you unlock it if you're not using a key or remote. In those cases, I use an under-the-window tool & flip the manual unlock button, & in a split second pull the outside handle before it relocks. It takes practice to get the speed, but I got to wear I could do it the first try.
There is sometimes a series of letters & numbers stamped into the face of the lock. Like "132E". If you have 1, take that number & the brand of the file cabinet into a locksmith shop, & they should be able to cut you a key. Otherwise of you don't have a code on the lock, you can either remove the cylinder & replace it, or have a locksmith come out & he should be able to do it.
It's made by an Israeli company called Mul-T-Lock. They are restricted keys & are proprietary to the individual lock shop that bought the rights to that keyway. The lock shop's name on the key is the only place you can get it copied, & usually you have to be an authorized person who originally purchased the key system from that locksmith.
Yes you can do that. That's not that uncommon actually. If you have the time to wait, you can special order hardware specifiying the color inside & out, as well as handle style. Maybe online retailers, or maybe from your local walk-in locksmith. Not sure what the cost would be.
Good question. Most likely you have to purchase it from a locksmith distributor. I'd google it. Since I don't and have never done the ordering where I've worked, I wouldn't begin to know where to tell you.
There should be an Allen set screw on the inside handle. You should be able to loosen it & slide the inside handle off, & then the outside handle & spindle will slide out the front. But I've never seen a split spindle on a door lock like that.
It's difficult to give you any advice the way you're describing it. It's illegal for a locksmith to cut a high security key for someone who isn't listed as an authorized person, so unless it's a very shady locksmith, that's probably not a possibility. Most likely they got in another way. If you don't see some serious pry marks on your door or deadbolt, then they probably didn't get in that way. Your deadbolt may just need to be tightened. It sounds like you need to have a locksmith come out & give you some options. It's awfully difficult for me to give you advice without seeing what you're talking about in this case.
Hmm I feel like if they're breaking/bypassing your locking gas cap, why wouldn't they just break the lock on your plate? I've personally never seen someone put a lock on the plate, but I suppose it would be worth going to a walk-in shop & getting an opinion.
You'd have to have a locksmith come out & decode it. Otherwise you can always take it in somewhere of its small enough to transport yourself.
Sounds like you may have had some master pins fall into the key hole. You need to have someone take it apart & repin the lock. Take it to a lock shop, have someone come out, or buy a new deadbolt.
Depends on what state you live in. Some you can't even be a locksmith until you're 21. Some don't have any restrictions, no licensing. Some do background checks, fingerprints etc. Find out what the laws are in your state, & if you're of age, check with some shops & see what they'll do.
Well from the way you make it sound, both sides are already locked, and people are just climbing over the fence? I think if these people are going to go to those lengths to get past the fence, it won't matter what lock you put on. Perhaps barbed wire? Snipers? Electric fence? Honestly, I don't know if there is a reasonable solution for fence hoppers. Security cameras and prosecution might work! If you're asking for a solution to allow tenants access through the lock, you could get a double-sided combination lock. Simplex makes one that holds up decently well. It's the EE1000 series.
I highly doubt it. I'd just cut it off if I were you. They don't usually have a way to disassemble stuff like that.
Yes that is true. You'd only have to save between 7,000 and 9,999,999 keys depending brand/type of key and the key system.
Trying to walk someone through that who doesn't have experience working with safe dials is like asking a mechanic to walk you through rebuilding an engine over the phone. You'll have to either take the safe to a locksmith or have 1 come out to do that for you. You're just lucky you got a safe that didn't need to be drilled open! $$$
The inside knob should have a set screw that takes a flat head screwdriver. Unscrew it, & the whole knob should get loose & unscrew counterclockwise. Then the spindle should slide out the front. If it's a 2-piece spindle, there will be 2 halves. 1 will slide straight out & the other you will lift in 1 direction or the other to unhook it from the lock.
I will give you a call.
Yes, look for a lock called a "storeroom" lock. You can get it in a knob form or a lever. It's always locked from the outside, & always lets you walk out from the inside without having to unlock it first. They are available in 3 grades (grade 3 being the lowest, & grade 1 bring the highest). I'd recommend a grade 2. For example, search Amazon for Schlage F80 to see examples.
They don't really make a deadbolt that is automatic. Like you said, they do, but it can be turned off.
I'm not an insurance expert, but as far as I know, if he's considered a contractor (which is what it sounds like), then the company doesn't have to insure their employees, or provide insurance. If he's hired on, & receives a W2 every year, I believe they're legally supposed to carry liability insurance- workmans comp, which protects employees in case they get hurt on the job. But I believe depending on the amount of employees, if it's under 50 (I think) they're not legally required to provide insurance.
Yes that's the most common thing locksmiths do! You can either bring the locks into a shop, or for a little more money, have a locksmith come out to you. They can cut keys on site in their vans.
If by alternative locking system you mean a better safe, Liberty Safes makes good reasonably priced gun safes. Libertysafe.com should be able to find a dealer in your area.
Absolutely. If you still have the pieces to your original broken key, they can cut you a new one off of that, otherwise make one from a door/glove box lock, depending on the car.
Can you send me a picture of it on twitter? @ATXJOSHL Since I don't know what brand it is, I have no idea what you're dealing with.
Well typically the most standard size hole is 2-1/8". Sometimes people will drill a 1-1/2" hole though, which is probably what you have. Depending on what lock you bought, most can be adapted to fit a 1-1/2" hole. Read your instructions. If you can't figure it out, message me on Twitter at ATXJoshL
Sometimes the weather can cause your house to shift, and doors & frames to swell. Over time your hinges may get stretched out or the screws in the hinges get loose causing your door to sag as well. It sounds like the strike plate is out of adjustment. This can also be caused by replacing your door knob/lever, or any changes to the lower strike plate (on the jamb).
First, make sure the lower strike plate is secure and adjusted properly exactly where you want it. Then, depending on how off it is, you might be able to just take a metal file and file the spot where it's hitting on the top strike plate for the deadbolt (on the jamb). Or you can move the whole plate until it's exactly where you want it. To test it without putting a bunch of screws in the jamb, TAPE it where you want it first, test the deadbolt, make your marks, then screw it in place.
1. The most important activity... That's a very vague question. Important in regard to what? Important to my boss, important to the customer, or important to myself? Boss: making the customer happy. Customer: pinning their locks properly and cutting their keys correctly so they can secure and open their business or home. Me: getting from point a to point B safely.
My fingers get cramped & start to hurt after long hours of pinning locks & stamping keys. Luckily that's a small part of what I do. Installing & repairing hardware is also a large part.
That's not true at all. A locksmith can come out to you & make a key to your truck & program the key to your truck on site. The only reason it would need to be replaced is if your ignition key is different than your door key (usually they're the same key) or if the ignition is severely worn or damaged.
Yes definitely. Most likely the door panel needs to be pulled & the linkage reconnected.
I had to ask 1 of our shop techs who deals with remotes about this one. He says that Honda (who makes Acura) has used the same programming procedure for years, so it should work, but no guarantees. All you can do is try. The differences might have something to do with the style of the remote, or maybe certain features in the remote.
Absolutely. They sell rings of "try out" skeleton keys online, or if you're lucky enough to live by a good experienced locksmith, they should carry them. They can come out to you, or you can bring the lock or dresser into the shop & they can make you a key.
If it is a warded lock, aka "skeleton" key, there may be. You would have to either take it to a locksmith or have a locksmith come out to you & bring a set of "tryout" keys. If its not a warded lock, a locksmith might be able to rekey them all alike, or replace the locks so they all match.
There are many different types of knobs & locks that fit your description, so the best thing I could tell you is send me a photo of it on Twitter & I can help you there. @ATXJOSHL
If you had asked me that a couple years ago I would have told you no. They had a lot of problems initially. I believe they are on their 3rd version now and it seems to be holding up pretty well. So basically sure I would. They're a pretty good lock.
First I would measure the cuts on the keys to make sure those are correct. Working with improperly cut keys is the most frustrating thing. Assuming you don't know how to master key, measure and write down the cuts to both keys. For example I'll use: 2536443122Write down the smallest number in each chamber...23122 those are your bottom pins. Follow the factory spec'd pins if you're using a LAB kit. Then to figure out the master pins, subtract the smallest number in each chamber from the bigger one. 22242 those will be the master pins. If you need additional help, hit me up on twitter. ATXJoshL There are so many variables as to why it might not be working. Cylinders aren't manufactured to factory specs, keys are improperly cut, using wrong pins, etc.
The only plastic ring that comes to mind is on the Schlage deadbolts. It allows the deadbolt to hold snug in the door while you put the mounting screws in. You can remove it and the metal ring as well if need be. There should be 2 screws on the inside of the keyed side. 1 holds the cylinder in place, the other holds the plastic & metal ring on.
If I'm totally off, send me a photo on my Twitter account: @ATXJoshL
If you're asking can safe combinations be reset, yes, if you know the current code, or if the safe is already opened. If not, they usually have to be professionally opened by drilling, or a few other techniques.
If you mean a chip in the key, yes I believe all Cadillacs do. They started hiding the chips under the plastic head of the key, but in the 80's and 90's you could see the chip embedded in the blade of the key right below the head of the key.
No, not possible. It doesn't mean you have to damage the door/lock though. The door can be picked open, lock disassembled, and a key made to the lock. Call a reputable company though, don't just look for the cheapest price.
Unfortunately the big name companies don't make one, but there's a company called Lockey that makes some. They aren't real high quality, but it is a solution.
Nope never heard of such a thing. There are such a small handful of locksmith apps as it is, that would be such a niche market, I can't imagine that app would ever get made.
I'm not familiar with strong box. A google search brought up quite a variety of different things. I would say see if you can order one from the manufacturer, otherwise if it is a fairly simple design, I'm sure a cylinder could be modified to work.
99% of the time, no definitely not. The only time I would ever drill a lock before trying to pick it is if it is high security and I know there is no way I'm going to get that thing picked. If you had somebody come out to your house to unlock it, and you have regular residential locks, I am sorry for you. You hired someone very unprofessional.
I've never worked on a door that required me to take the door down to take out or work on a cylinder, so no, you probably shouldn't have to do that. Now if the bottom concealed latch/bolt needs work, sometimes you do have to take the door down, sometimes not.
It sounds like something is not right. If you have Twitter, send me a photo of the edge of the door and inside the hole. @ATXJOSHL Other than that, I would take a pair of big pliers and grab the latch inside the hole and shake it back and forth to try to loosen it up. Then try to pull it out again with that big screwdriver.
It really depends on how old your lock is. I believe the new Dexter locks are designed different than the old ones. You're probably better off just getting a new deadbolt. Look for something that specifies "drive-in" latch, or "6-way" latch. Most don't come 1 specific way, they come with adapters so you can change it from square faced to a drive-in latch.
What I always do is take a big screwdriver and put it through the 2" hole BEHIND the latch. Grabbing a hold of each end of the screwdriver, pull towards you. The latch should shoot out at your chest. That way you're my prying against the door.
If your front door key will fit in the lock on your garage, it doesn't even have to turn, take the locks off and take them to a locksmith. They should be able to make them match your front door. If it doesn't fit, take your front door key and get a couple replacement locks that will accept it. Have them rekeyed to match. If you don't care if they match or not, take your garage locks off and take them to a locksmith to get re-keyed, or just buy a new set
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