Josh-the-Locksmith
25 Years Experience
Austin, TX
Male, 46
I've been a locksmith since 1998. I did automotive residential & commercial work from 1998 to 2008. From 2008 to 2018, I did some residential, but mostly commercial work. I have been project managing & estimating since 2018. I used to locksmith in the Chicago area, now the Austin area.
There are many different types of knobs & locks that fit your description, so the best thing I could tell you is send me a photo of it on Twitter & I can help you there. @ATXJOSHL
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1.21 gigawatts.
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Absolutely not. In fact I dont know many who have been to school for locksmithing. Most people apprentice. Sometimes it's knowing the right person, sometimes it's finding a shop who wants to hire cheap labor & train you.
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First I would measure the cuts on the keys to make sure those are correct. Working with improperly cut keys is the most frustrating thing. Assuming you don't know how to master key, measure and write down the cuts to both keys. For example I'll use: 2536443122Write down the smallest number in each chamber...23122 those are your bottom pins. Follow the factory spec'd pins if you're using a LAB kit. Then to figure out the master pins, subtract the smallest number in each chamber from the bigger one. 22242 those will be the master pins. If you need additional help, hit me up on twitter. ATXJoshL There are so many variables as to why it might not be working. Cylinders aren't manufactured to factory specs, keys are improperly cut, using wrong pins, etc.
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Sometimes the weather can cause your house to shift, and doors & frames to swell. Over time your hinges may get stretched out or the screws in the hinges get loose causing your door to sag as well. It sounds like the strike plate is out of adjustment. This can also be caused by replacing your door knob/lever, or any changes to the lower strike plate (on the jamb).
First, make sure the lower strike plate is secure and adjusted properly exactly where you want it. Then, depending on how off it is, you might be able to just take a metal file and file the spot where it's hitting on the top strike plate for the deadbolt (on the jamb). Or you can move the whole plate until it's exactly where you want it. To test it without putting a bunch of screws in the jamb, TAPE it where you want it first, test the deadbolt, make your marks, then screw it in place.
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There is sometimes a series of letters & numbers stamped into the face of the lock. Like "132E". If you have 1, take that number & the brand of the file cabinet into a locksmith shop, & they should be able to cut you a key. Otherwise of you don't have a code on the lock, you can either remove the cylinder & replace it, or have a locksmith come out & he should be able to do it.
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I had to ask 1 of our shop techs who deals with remotes about this one. He says that Honda (who makes Acura) has used the same programming procedure for years, so it should work, but no guarantees. All you can do is try. The differences might have something to do with the style of the remote, or maybe certain features in the remote.
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