NYCFashionista
New York, NY
Female, 33
I’m the Creative Director/CEO/Jill-of-all-trades at my very own cold-weather fashion accessory business. I design and market a line of knit-based fashion accessories (scarves, gloves, hats) aimed at the contemporary market. My work can be found in several specialty boutiques in the US and Asia.
Did it ever really come back? Actually I think it's just about to make a big comeback - that along with tapered jeans... yes, the same pair you wore in high school...
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Find a way to get your idea produced in small batches to test market demand and production feasibility for your concept. So get samples made pronto! Get on craigslist or ask your friends for references for tailors, silk-screen print shops anything you need to understand what goes into making the product... The goal here shouldn't be perfection but to get feedback fast, so you can adjust, refine, sell, and get more feedback - repeat! However, if you have access to a factory, I highly recommend working with them as early as possible. You can come up with an amazing prototype but if it can't be practically produced en masse that won't work either. People focus so much on testing market demand but the prototyping process is also a great opportunity to get insight into the production feasibility of your concept. But between the two, it's easier and better to focus on market demand first. You can always scramble when the sales orders come in!
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The harsh glare of reality TV is not for me. I'd probably consider it only if I had a way to generate sales and / or capitalize on the publicity. If my business were up and running, maybe... But if you're going to do it - make sure you have a web presence at the very least! Opportunities will come if people know how to get in touch with you...
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Last season, I created a line of reversible "hoodscarves" (really a hat with long lapels that double as a scarf). It was functional, versatile and practical, why wouldn't it sell?! Each and every buyer liked the item but complained about the item's "hanger appeal." "Hanger appeal" is important to buyers. If your design won't look good on a clothes rack or shelf, or if it requires a special display or a long-winded explanation from the salesperson to move -- it won't sell. Apparently my hoodscarf concept fell into that category.
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If you're looking to build your resume by apprenticing with a top designer, the good news is that yes, you can avoid New York! You can build your career in London, Los Angeles, Paris, and Milan as these are also major centers of fashion in the world. But if apprenticing is not your cup of tea, you can work remotely out of virtually any location as long as you have dependable Internet connection to sell your designs and PR skills to promote your line to anyone who will listen.
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I think fashion school is useful insofar as it gives budding designers a head start in the industry -- production techniques, industry contacts, business practices, nomenclature -- they teach you all that in fashion school. But anyone with boundless confidence and a thick skin can break into this industry and succeed. Having said that, a period of paying dues is expected even for graduates of fashion programs. Apprenticeships at successful fashion companies would probably be more crucial to success in the industry -- people learn more by doing. Also buyers, especially at the big department stores, like to see professional pedigree and rarely back new, unproven designers. They need to be confident that you can deliver merchandise and that it will sell.
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Unless a brand owns its own manufacturing facility, it's a difficult and expensive strategy to implement. Manufacturers live and die by volume. Mainstream brands who have this service (e.g. Nike) typically treat it as a fringe project/business aimed at brand loyalists and for buzz. They can engage in this sort of business because their ready-to-wear business pays the bills. Niche bag company Freitag also has a custom business, but I have a feeling their ready-to-wear business props that up as well. I have yet to see a mainstream company that is built entirely on the premise of customization.
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