NYCFashionista
New York, NY
Female, 33
I’m the Creative Director/CEO/Jill-of-all-trades at my very own cold-weather fashion accessory business. I design and market a line of knit-based fashion accessories (scarves, gloves, hats) aimed at the contemporary market. My work can be found in several specialty boutiques in the US and Asia.
Find a way to get your idea produced in small batches to test market demand and production feasibility for your concept. So get samples made pronto! Get on craigslist or ask your friends for references for tailors, silk-screen print shops anything you need to understand what goes into making the product... The goal here shouldn't be perfection but to get feedback fast, so you can adjust, refine, sell, and get more feedback - repeat! However, if you have access to a factory, I highly recommend working with them as early as possible. You can come up with an amazing prototype but if it can't be practically produced en masse that won't work either. People focus so much on testing market demand but the prototyping process is also a great opportunity to get insight into the production feasibility of your concept. But between the two, it's easier and better to focus on market demand first. You can always scramble when the sales orders come in!
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Did it ever really come back? Actually I think it's just about to make a big comeback - that along with tapered jeans... yes, the same pair you wore in high school...
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The harsh glare of reality TV is not for me. I'd probably consider it only if I had a way to generate sales and / or capitalize on the publicity. If my business were up and running, maybe... But if you're going to do it - make sure you have a web presence at the very least! Opportunities will come if people know how to get in touch with you...
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Last season, I created a line of reversible "hoodscarves" (really a hat with long lapels that double as a scarf). It was functional, versatile and practical, why wouldn't it sell?! Each and every buyer liked the item but complained about the item's "hanger appeal." "Hanger appeal" is important to buyers. If your design won't look good on a clothes rack or shelf, or if it requires a special display or a long-winded explanation from the salesperson to move -- it won't sell. Apparently my hoodscarf concept fell into that category.
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American Apparel made a very conscious business decision to keep manufacturing in the US because it pays, period. Consumers were clamoring for US-made garments and were willing to pay a premium for it. Producing everything in their own vertically-integrated factory in the US costs way more than outsourcing, but American Apparel can respond to market demand quickly and avoid stock-piling inventory in their stores. Aside from the business rationale, US-based production also happens to make for a good brand story.
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Fashion shows were created with fashion buyers in mind. In a few minutes, fashion buyers can review the designer's best looks and place orders that will arrive 6 months later. But the clothes/looks you see on the runway are just samples. Once buyers place their orders after the show, only then would a *smart* designer line up manufacturing / fulfillment. So it's also a great way to test concepts and measure consumer demand before locking cash in production. As many as 70% of the looks shown are typically not picked up, but the 30% that do make it are usually the most commercial pieces that will go on to sell well. Competition is fierce during fashion week and it's important to stand out. Therefore many designers add "extreme" designs / looks to the mix - these are not commercial pieces but play an important role in communicating the designer's perspective that season. Stores all follow a pretty set buying calendar and place their biggest orders for fall and spring. Designers cater to these buyers so fashion shows take place during "market" week in the major fashion cities such as New York, Paris and Milan, when buyers flock to these cities looking for items to sell in their stores 6 months later. These shows attract media attention b/c people want to know what they should be wearing in 6 months! Not surprisingly, fashion show commentary and photos sell -- "fashion issues" are typically one of the most lucrative issues in a magazine's/newspapers editorial calendar.
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I think fashion school is useful insofar as it gives budding designers a head start in the industry -- production techniques, industry contacts, business practices, nomenclature -- they teach you all that in fashion school. But anyone with boundless confidence and a thick skin can break into this industry and succeed. Having said that, a period of paying dues is expected even for graduates of fashion programs. Apprenticeships at successful fashion companies would probably be more crucial to success in the industry -- people learn more by doing. Also buyers, especially at the big department stores, like to see professional pedigree and rarely back new, unproven designers. They need to be confident that you can deliver merchandise and that it will sell.
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