Fred Robel
27 Years Experience
Au Gres, MI
Male, 49
I'm a licensed Aircraft Mechanic & Inspector with twenty five-plus years in the field. I've had a varied career so far, with time spent in the sheetmetal, mechanic, and inspection specialties. Most of my time is on heavy Boeing and McDonnell Douglas aircraft, of the passenger, cargo, and experimental type. This career isn't for everyone, but I enjoy it.
Please do NOT ask me to troubleshoot problems with your airplane, that is not what this Q&A is for.
In large commercial aircraft, it seems to be the Boeing 737, in production since 1967.
For General Aviation I'd think it would be the Cessna 172.
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Yes. It is easy to find a job. IF you have your A&P license, AND you are willing to go to where the jobs are.
There are most often jobs available, not necessarily in your immediate area, and you might have to go with a contracting company. But there are jobs.
If you don't have your license, or you aren't willing to move at least yourself to wherever the work is; then there might be a harder time finding a job.
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Currently, as an inspector in an engine shop, my tools consist of what I carry on my belt: A good flashlight, a leatherman, a mirror, a blue pen, black pen, and red grease pencil.
Our shop cabinet has numerous precision measuring devices. Calipers, micrometers, depth guages, etc. All a mix of Starrett, and Mitutoyo brands.
We also have two GE borescope kits, which are simply marvelous.
When I was a mechanic, I had a Stanley Vidmar toolbox, which I judge to be the sturdiest for the money. With a mix of Craftsman, Mac, and Snap-On tools inside.
Basically consisting of what you'd imagine to be in a mechanic's box. Screwdrivers, wrenches, sockets, hammers, punches; with several different variations of each.
Also: Don't underestimate the value of keeping a 'cheap' set of wrenches and sockets in your box. They are used to make 'special' tools (bending, cutting, etc) to reach difficult areas. That way you don't have to wreck your good brand tools.
I can't exaggerate how much I love my Snap-On Ratcheting screwdriver. Get one with the 'old fashioned' hard plastic handle, as the newer one with the rubberized inserts will get eaten by the hydraulic fluid.
Start off with the basic tool list your workplace will give you. And just build it intelligently from there. Buy quality when you can. But Craftsman works just fine, don't be a tool snob.
There seems to be an almost infinite number of specialized tools and fixtures that each particular aircraft you work on will need. Usually, the company you work for will buy or rent those for your use. Occasionally, you will find yourself doing one certain job so often, that it makes sense for you to buy, or make it for yourself. But you won't know that, until you do.
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That sounds like a question for Adam and Jamie over at Mythbusters!
I don't really know.
After the initial air pressure equaliziation, which could be quite turbulent I suppose; you'd still have the air rushing along outside the open hatch. That would create some suction, courtesy of Bernouli's principle.
I guess as long as you stayed away from it, and were belted in, it might be all right.
A more immediate concern would be bringing the aircraft down to an altitude that had enough oxygen for humans to live.
And further: Opening an emergency hatch would be a Herculian effort for sure. All the emergency exits I've seen, are plug type hatches. Which means that whomever 'ripped' it out; would be fighting against the higher air pressure of the inside of the airplane, versus the outside air.
Those few psi don't sound like much, but it adds up to a lot of force holding that plug type hatch in place, even without a latch holding it.
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Vinod, I'm not sure what you mean? If you mean the basic tools I use on the job, check out the answer I just gave to Chad........
"What tools or equipment do you usually use on the job?Asked by Chad over 1 year ago
Currently, as an inspector in an engine shop, my tools consist of what I carry on my belt: A good flashlight, a leatherman, a mirror, a blue pen, black pen, and red grease pencil.
Our shop cabinet has numerous precision measuring devices. Calipers, micrometers, depth guages, etc. All a mix of Starrett, and Mitutoyo brands.
We also have two GE borescope kits, which are simply marvelous.
When I was a mechanic, I had a Stanley Vidmar toolbox, which I judge to be the sturdiest for the money. With a mix of Craftsman, Mac, and Snap-On tools inside.
Basically consisting of what you'd imagine to be in a mechanic's box. Screwdrivers, wrenches, sockets, hammers, punches; with several different variations of each.
Also: Don't underestimate the value of keeping a 'cheap' set of wrenches and sockets in your box. They are used to make 'special' tools (bending, cutting, etc) to reach difficult areas. That way you don't have to wreck your good brand tools.
I can't exaggerate how much I love my Snap-On Ratcheting screwdriver. Get one with the 'old fashioned' hard plastic handle, as the newer one with the rubberized inserts will get eaten by the hydraulic fluid.
Start off with the basic tool list your workplace will give you. And just build it intelligently from there. Buy quality when you can. But Craftsman works just fine, don't be a tool snob.
There seems to be an almost infinte number of specialized tools and fixtures that each particular aircraft you work on will need. Usually, the company you work for will buy or rent those for your use. Occasionally, you will find yourself doing one certain job so often, that it makes sense for you to buy, or make it for yourself. But you won't know that, until you do. "
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The short answer is: Get used to it.
In reality, there may be places to go to find helpful hints as to where to find the info you need. But in the long run, it's better for you to just learn how the individual manufacturer's manuals are set up and organized. This will give you a good 'feel' as far as where to start looking for the more obscure references.
I've found, that the more recent the manual, the more of a standard it adheres to. As the companies that put out our publications do seem to be trying to make things a little easier, and have more commonality, as far as how things are laid out.
The older manuals though; they can be a headache and a half. Douglas did their manuals one way; Boeing did theirs another; Pratt & Whitney does theirs a third way still. The list could go on.
It can feel like a goose chase to find information sometimes. If it's a PDF document, use the search function to help narrow things down.
Otherwise, just do your best to try to learn the manuals you use most often. Before you know it, you'll be the manual guru that everyone turns to when they just can't seem to find what they are looking for.
Best of luck.
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In my opinion: If you love aircraft; and more importantly, the less glorious job of actually working on them; then this might be the career for you.
So far, this has been a good job as far as making a living. It pays pretty well, if you choose your jobs and locations carefully.
If you really plan to make a career out of this; where a career means starting, and progressing forward or upwards; then I'd advise you to get a four year degree before you start, or at some point along the way.
Reason being, there are a lot of ways you can start off this career. At the low end, you can walk in with a small toolbox, no license, and start working for mechanic's helper wages on a maintenance crew; or you can invest in yourself up front, go to school for your A&P licenses for two years; then continue with your school for a couple more years to get that four year degree. Doing the latter, will prep you to not only start off at full mechanic's wages, but also have you poised to move into management at the appropriate time later on. (As lots of companies require a four year degree in their managers)
If you are flexible with locations, travelling, and willingness to do various parts of the job; then you will never be unemployed.
Being an aircraft mechanic can be a great career, if it is right for you. Only you can really decide if it is.
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