I've been working with ball pythons for over ten years now. Two years ago I decided to breed them as a business. I run a small operation. Currently I have approximately 100 snakes in my breeding program and hope to produce over 200 babies in the 2013 breeding season. I've always been fascinated by reptiles, snakes in particular, and being able to work with them every day is very satisfying.
Yes, there are some laws in place that restrict what exotic animals people can have. These are usually at the state or local level. Some cities require permits, while other cities outright ban certain species. I recommend to anyone interested in keeping an exotic pet that they should research any local laws that might be in place before purchasing their pet. At the Federal level, there are some restrictions. There is the Lacey Act, which makes it a felony to own certain forms of wildlife and to transfer others over state lines. Recently, due to the supposed problem in the Everglades and a faulty scientific study, several species of large constricting snakes were added to the Lacey Act. It is now a felony to transfer a burmese python over state lines. This has effectively destroyed the burmese python industry in our country and has destroyed the way of life of many breeders who's income depended on these snakes. All to solve a problem that doesn't exist. Sorry. I got off on a tangent there... Most snakes, however, are fine to sell and own and transfer over state lines. Ball pythons, the species I work with, are a smaller snake, so there are less restrictions on them. Snakes are shipped in the mail. I have had dozens of snakes shipped right to my door. FedEx overnight is the service most breeders use to ship their snakes. If they are packed properly, the snakes are not harmed and arrive at their destination usually less than 12 hours after they leave the breeder's possession.
First, I want to clarify that I am not an expert in the Everglades, nor am I an expert in Burmese Pythons. I am also not an environmental scientist. So, with that being said, I will definitely share what I know and my opinion on the matter. Fear sells. That's how mainstream media makes their money. "Stopping a Burmese Python Invasion" will catch more eyes and get more reads than "A Few Burmese Pythons Found in the Everglades." It's far more intriguing to make it out to be a huge problem. The facts are actually much more boring. The media tells us that the burmese pythons are in the Everglades due to careless pet owners releasing their pets into the wild because they become too big and too much work. DNA tests were done on the pythons and they are traced back to a breeder's facility that was destroyed during Hurricane Andrew. There is no evidence that these snakes are caused by released pets. The media will tell you that a scientific study was done that shows the burmese pythons could migrate as far north as New England. The fact is, that study took the average temperatures of an area over the course of a year and compared that to the extreme survival limits of the snakes. These snakes are very susceptible to cold temperatures. If the temperature drops too low for too long, the snakes will get sick and die. The fact is, these snakes can't survive for any significant length of time anywhere in our country other than the Everglades. The "scientific" study that was done that was used to enact more laws is being challenged in court, because it is based off faulty science. The media will tell you that there are an estimated 150,000 burmese pythons in the Everglades. The people who actually have state issued licenses to hunt these pythons will tell you differently. The number is more likely 5,000-10,000 or even less. Florida actually just hosted a python hunt, where over 1500 people scoured the Everglades for a month searching for burmese pythons. The result? They found 68 pythons, and some of those are thought to be pets that people claimed to have found in order to win the prize money. If there were as many pythons out there as they claim, those hunters should have been finding them left and right. The fact is, that the cold winters that Florida experienced have killed off most of the pythons. They are not nearly as prolific as the media wants you to believe. As far as being an apex predator, that might be true for a fully grown burmese, but for babies and younger pythons, they are certainly fair game. The fact that very few fully grown pythons are found means that babies are being preyed upon regularly. They are not decimating the wildlife in the Everglades. Feral cats are a much more serious problem as far as that goes. The burmese pythons are not a danger to humans. Not a single human has been attacked by one of these wild burmese pythons. Generally, snakes and other wildlife want to avoid contact with humans. If you leave them alone, they will leave you alone. You might be interested in reading this Q&A with Shawn Heflick, who is a Herpetologist and one of the licensed python hunters I mentioned earlier: http://www.pbs.org/wnet/nature/episodes/invasion-of-the-giant-pythons/herpetologist-shawn-heflick-answers-your-questions/5564/
If the snakes are close to the same genus/species classification and are similar in body size, then yes. For example, you can relatively easily cross a ball python and a blood python. These are two closely related species. You could not, on the other hand, cross a ball python with a rattle snake. Those species are just too far removed from each other.
It depends. The market is really driven by mutations of patterns and colors (typically referred to as 'morphs'). When a new mutation is discovered, either from a wild caught import, or through a fortuitous captive breeding, it is extremely expensive. Some new mutations hit the market at up to $100,000, but most new genes are introduced at a price range of $10,000-25,000, depending on the desirability of the morph. Each year, as more individuals carrying the morph are produced, the prices come down. When you combine multiple morphs into single animals, the value goes up, depending on how many morphs are in the individual and the rarity of those morphs. In addition to that, the sex of the snake affects value too. When a mutation is rare, males are far more valuable, as a single male can start breeding usually within 6 months and he can produce multiple clutches. Females, on the other hand, take a minimum of two years to mature and can only produce a single clutch. Once a morph becomes more common and less expensive, the females start becoming more valuable because more people will want them to breed to higher valued males. Simply put, the answer to your question ranges from $75-$100,000, depending on the rarity of the snake in question.
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Simple answer: yes. Longer answer: Snakes can't really be tied in a knot as you might tie a string or a rope into a knot. Their bodies, while flexible, cannot bend at a tight enough angle to be knotted, at least not without fatally injuring the snake. Snakes can and do get wrapped up in themselves, but I've never witnessed one do that and not be able to easily backtrack to unwind itself.
Thank you for the compliment. I'm glad you enjoyed them. When I met my wife over 6 years ago, I was not breeding pythons. I did have a couple reptiles as pets, a ball python being one of them. So she was aware that I was a reptile enthusiast, but she really had no idea what she was getting herself into. :) It had been a dream of mine to someday breed ball pythons since that time ten years ago when I purchased my first ball python as a pet and was introduced the world of morphs and the endless possibilities that are available with mixing and matching them. It was just out of my reach, financially, as well as logistically at the time, so I had to put that dream on the back burner. A few years after my wife and I married, we had settled down a bit and she was pregnant for our first child together (she has a son from a previous relationship, who will soon be my adopted son). I had achieved financial security for us and was able to seriously consider fulfilling that dream I had nearly a decade earlier. I don't think she took me seriously at first when I brought the idea up... "You want to do WHAT?" However, after many conversations and a lot of convincing, she finally relented and gave her blessing. Hint to anyone who might want to do this: Play the education card. "But honey, this will be an excellent educational experience for our children. Not only will they learn responsibility from helping take care of the animals, but they will also learn about the circle of life, the reproductive cycle of animals, and the miracle of birth." It worked great for me, and it's true at the same time. Good stuff. Anyway, this was probably way more information than you were expecting. My wife, while she didn't come into our relationship knowing about all of this, has accepted it and supported me the whole way. She doesn't do a whole lot of hands on work with the snakes, but she enjoys them when she does.
Yes, I've been bitten many times. Bites from babies are barely noticeable. They are lucky if they pierce the skin and draw blood. Bites from adults are a little worse, but still not bad. I like to compare it to a bee sting, except the bee sting hurts a whole lot more. Ball pythons do not have fangs. Instead they have a lot of tiny, extremely sharp teeth. It feels like a bunch of little needles. If you can handle getting a shot, you can handle being bit by a ball python. Larger species have larger teeth, and can cause more damage. I've never been bitten by a larger species, so I have no first hand experience. I do know that in some cases, stitches can be required. Generally speaking, it's the fear and anticipation of a bite that's worse than actually getting bit.
A quick Google search shows that there seems to have been one instance of a boa constrictor killing a human. It looks like the owner was handling his large boa without assistance and it strangled him. There is very little real danger when these animals are treated with respect and responsibly handled. In the above case, that man would have been fine had a second person been present or he prevented the snake from wrapping around his neck. Carelessness caused his death. As for eating him, the snake did not and was not large enough to even attempt to.
I'm not aware of any. Here in the US, most people don't view snakes as food, so there's not a large market for it. I'm not saying it doesn't happen, I just don't know about it.
Ball pythons are very secretive snakes. They like to hide away from sight, so yes, this is perfectly normal behavior. It might take a few weeks for your snake to get acclimated to its new home.
If your snake is a baby and hasn't eaten very many times, then you'll need to keep an eye on him. If he doesn't eat after a month or so, you may need to take action. Babies are typically very good eaters, so not eating is usually a sign of stress. Make sure the temperatures are good (he will need a cool side at 75-80 degrees and a warm side of 90 degrees) and that he has hides on both sides. I've found that humidity isn't extremely important, but you should try to keep it around 40-50% at the lowest. Also, keep handling to a minimum until he's eating regularly.
Some babies will only take live food, so if you're offering frozen thawed, you may want to offer a live one. Some also only want mice, so if you're offering rats, try a mouse.
If your snake is an older snake, he might have hit what we refer to as the wall. It's not unusual for ball pythons to eat very well until they reach 600-1000g, and then just stop eating for months. I have had many snakes shut down for 4-6 months after hitting this wall, so while it's frustrating, it's nothing to be too concerned about. If your snake starts looking unhealthy, then you might want to contact your vet.
Since I don't have many details about your situation, I cannot offer specific advice. If you'd like, you can contact me through my website (linked above) and I'll be happy to help you further.
At one point I was breeding rats to feed my snakes with, but I got out of that. It was more work than the snakes and not much fun. As far as what I would like to breed, probably another species of snake, or perhaps even lizard.
The two species of snakes I'd like to get that I don't have any personal experience with yet are green tree pythons and brazilian rainbow boas. As far as lizards go, I love the look and variety of leopard geckos and crested geckos are pretty cool too.
With reptiles, it's important to find a qualified vet. Not all vets are very knowledgeable when it comes to reptiles. They have basic knowledge, but if you have a major problem, they're going to be of limited help.
I was fortunate to have a good reptile vet in my town. Some reptile owners/breeders have to travel hours to visit a qualified reptile vet.
Yes, there is certainly a market for adults/larger juveniles.
Most people buy babies when they buy a new snake. This is because most breeders don't let go of adults. It takes a lot of time and energy to get an adult to breeding size, particularly females. So it's unusual to find someone selling an adult. When they are available, they are typically more expensive than babies. Buying an adult saves you a lot of time and energy, not to mention the expenses of food and housing for that time.
Most breeders only let go of adult females when they have run out of room. Even a "normal" (the color and pattern found in the wild) female can produce a valuable clutch when paired to a high-valued male, so it doesn't make sense to sell them unless you physically can't keep them.
Males are typically sold more often. This is because males are more easily replaced. Say I have a male with "Mutation X." I breed him to a female that is "Mutation Y." From that breeding I get a male that has both mutations. I could hold onto that male and in a year he's going to be more valuable to me than his dad. So dad gets put up for sale and his son takes over his job for me.
Beyond the price of the snakes, you have many other expenses to deal with. Some are one-time expenses, such as housing, water bowls, hides, etc. Others are reoccurring expenses, like food, cleaning supplies and substrate. In the end, it's not very expensive to raise a snake. I believe I calculated my overall expenses to be approximately $80-100 per year per snake. That being said, the biggest expense is your time. It takes time to feed, clean and breed the snakes. With nearly 100 snakes in my collection, I spend about 10-14 hours a week in the snake room, taking care of the various tasks required. Dealing with the snakes isn't the only time commitment. I've also spent many hours creating my website. A good website takes a lot of work, and I try to keep mine updated with blog posts on at least a monthly basis. You'll need to answer questions from customers as well. If you want to remain relevant, you also need to make sure you keep up to date on the latest developments in the industry. You'll want to know what the latest hot morph or combo is. You'll always want to be upgrading your collection with new genes, so you'll need to research to be able to predict what will be a hot seller when you're finally able to produce them. It's very possible to get a great return on your investment in the ball python industry, but it's far from easy money. It takes a great deal of work and a passion for the animals. Our industry has seen get rich quick guys come and go. The only people who stick around for long are those who love the animals.
It is possible for a large constrictor, like a fully grown burmese or a fully grown reticulated python, to constrict the neck of a human to the point where the person couldn't breathe. That's why it's important to be responsible when handling these large snakes. Never let them get into the position where they can wrap around your neck or other vital areas of your body, and always have someone on hand that can assist you if things get out of hand. I, personally, have never felt in danger with any of my ball pythons. Of course, ball pythons rarely get over 10 pounds and 6 foot long, so they cannot overpower an adult. I also have no qualms about allowing my children interact with them.
That depends on your definition of "living." If I were to cut you in half, you would live for a period of time, but it wouldn't be very long. In other words, it's not instant death. That being said, reptiles have much slower metabolisms than we do. You cut a human's head off, and the brain will remain conscious for a few seconds. You cut a snake's head off, and its brain will remain conscious for a good bit longer. We're talking in terms of minutes, not seconds. Cutting a snake in half wouldn't result in two separate entities that could survive independently. It's the same as cutting any other animal in half, with the exception that the snake would be in agony much longer.
There is still some debate on this. The reptilian brain is very primitive. They have very little cognitive ability and no real show of emotion. My personal opinion is that even if the snake recognizes one person from another, they don't treat that person any differently. A snake's behavior is mainly based on interactions from their environment. When handling a snake, they can tell if you're nervous or calm, and their behavior stems from that. If you're nervous, they are more inclined to be nervous, and similarly, if you are calm, they are more likely to be calm. They are certainly not companion pets, but I see them as fascinating, beautiful living works of art.
I have seen that movie and it's 100% pure fiction. Hollywood rarely portrays snakes in an accurate (or even positive, for that matter) way. It's a shame that the only time you see a snake in a movie is when they want to scare you.
Ball pythons have an average of 6-7 eggs per clutch, and one clutch per year at most. In the carefully monitored environment that we breeders keep the snakes and the eggs in during breeding and incubation, the vast majority of eggs survive and hatch, and the vast majority of babies that hatch survive into adulthood. I'm certain this is much better than they see in the wild. I have personally not hatched a large number of eggs, but I've seen statistics from a large breeder. He has approximately 90% of his eggs go full term. There are no stats on hatchling survival rate, but I'd guess it's probably 98% or higher. There are occasional development deformities and incubation issues that result in some babies not making it, but these are few and far between. As for other python species, I know they tend to lay far more eggs (20 or more), but as far as egg and hatchling survival rate, I cannot comment because I have not done enough research on those species to know the numbers.
I feel ball pythons are a great starter snake. They are very docile, reluctant to bite and they don't get too big. Some snakes are very active when being handled, they will be going this way and that, and for a child this might pose problematic if the snake gets away from them. Ball pythons will explore a little bit while being handled, but they aren't usually quick moving and they are easy to control. Ball pythons aren't perfect though. They are notoriously picky eaters. I have some snakes that haven't eaten in over seven months. This is frustrating when you're trying to raise up a snake for breeding, but as a pet owner, it's not such a big deal. Corn snakes are another species that come highly recommended. I have no personal experience with them, so I can't comment much. Definitely research any species you decide to go with before bringing your pet home.
You can't really train snakes in the same manner as you can a dog. Reptile brains are very primitive. There's not much there beyond the essentials for survival. Snakes do get vibes from humans though. If you are handling a snake and you're nervous and scared, the snake will realize that and also be on edge. If you are calm and confident, the snake will know it and be more at ease. It's still under debate on whether or not snakes learn and can identify their owners vs others. Some snake owners will swear their snake treats them differently than others. Personally, I'm of the opinion that the snake really is only reacting to how you are feeling. Also, snakes tend to change their personalities as they age. Babies are typically more easily irritated and more likely to bite. They have to be though, as in the wild, baby snakes are easy prey. Once they reach adulthood, they tend to mellow out. As far as danger, if it's a smaller snake, the only dangerous area is going to be their teeth. When someone is handling one of my snakes, I caution them to keep the snake's head out of striking distance of their face. Ball pythons have heat sensing organs that help them find their prey. Your face is warm and your breath is hot, so that's a big ball of heat that the snake is seeing and in a moment of confusion, they might strike. As I mentioned before though, a bite from a ball python isn't exactly dangerous. It's more of an annoyance than anything. You also want to avoid sudden movements. Predators in the wild move and attack quickly, so any sudden movements might be seen as an attack and could result in a defensive strike. Now, with venomous snakes, you don't want to be anywhere near them unless you've had proper training. Bad things happen when a venomous snake bites you. Larger constrictor snakes, such as burmese pythons or reticulated pythons, can pose more of a danger, since they are strong enough to constrict you to the point where you can't do anything about it. It's always recommended that you don't handle large constrictors alone. Always have someone on hand to help, in case the snake starts constricting. The snake won't constrict you with the idea of eating you, but if the snake is draped around your neck and starts feeling uneasy, it might tighten its grip on your neck in order to keep from falling off, and that could lead to a bad situation. Once you get enough experience working with the snakes, you learn how they work. You understand their body language and know when they are relaxed and when they really just want to be left alone. I can easily tell if one of my snakes is likely to bite, and through experience I also know the best ways to handle a snake that is likely to bite so that they don't bite.
If a mutation is genetic, there's always a chance that it will be passed onto offspring. DNA comes in pairs. Each part of the DNA contributes something to the oganism. When a baby is created, half the DNA comes from the mom, half from the dad. Some mutations are only on half of the DNA pair, others are on both. When it's on half, there's a 50% chance it passes onto each offspring, when it's on both, there's 100% chance it passes on (but the resulting offspring may only end up with half the mutation, unless both parents pass on the mutation).
This is a very simplified explanation, but hopefully it gets the idea across. Any genetic mutation is passable. When the mutation is caused by environmental causes (usually due to temperature issues during development in the case of ball pythons), those mutations are not passed onto offspring.
No, that's not possible. Like I mentioned in an earlier answer, snakes can't be trained in the same way dogs and cats can. They just don't have the intelligence required. It would also be difficult to teach them vocal commands because snakes don't have ears.
Ball pythons got their name due to the fact that when they feel frightened or stressed, they ball themselves up. I've read that the reason ball pythons do this is because in their natural environment, the king cobra is their natural predator, and balling up makes them more difficult to swallow. I don't recall where I read that, so I can't verify if it's factual but it makes sense to me. As for other reasons why snakes might coil up, I think there might be a few different reasons. If they find a warm spot, like a rock that has been heated by the sun, coiling up over it makes sure their entire body gets the heat. It might also help to make them less visible to predators and to feel more secure. It could also put them in a better body posture to strike if they need to.
There's no set rule that can be used to determine if a mutation (morph) will be valuable. It's all determined by how desirable the mutation is and how much supply there is of that mutation. As for making an individual snake valuable, you have some control over that. You would need to pair up a male and/or female that contain the gene or genes that you want in the baby, and then hope you hit the odds. The way the mutations work is that a baby is born that is different. The difference might be subtle or it might be blatantly obvious. Most of the morphs we have today came from wild caught animals from Africa. When these snakes are found, we don't know if the mutation is caused by a genetically passable trait, or if it's just some anomaly in the snake. A breeder will need to buy the snake and prove it out, which in some cases, can be very expensive. As an example, the viper ball mutation was bought for $70,000 and turned out not to be genetic. The GHI ball mutation was bought for $125 and now animals with that single gene are going for $10,000. It's a gamble that some of the big breeders take because the payoff can be enormous. A single new desirable gene can make a breeder hundreds of thousands of dollars in just a few years. Can you create a valuable snake by breeding two normal or common snakes together? In extremely, extremely rare instances, yes, but normally no, that doesn't happen. The only way it could happens is if a random mutation occurs in one of the babies that turns out to be both genetic and desirable. There have been very few instances of this happening, but it does happen.
Honestly, that's a tough question. An easier question would be "what's the worst thing about breeding snakes?" That would be cleaning up snake poop day after day. :) The best thing... It would have to be seeing baby snakes hatch out of their eggs. It takes anywhere from 4-8 months from the time you start pairing the male and female together until she lays eggs and those eggs are ready to hatch. Those babies are the culmination of months of anticipation, hoping, hard work and patience. It's a combination of seeing the miracle of new life, the feeling of accomplishment in knowing that you had a big hand in making it happen, and the hope you have for the future with the babies you just hatched. That would be the best thing about breeding snakes as far as I'm concerned.
I feed most of my snakes rats of various sizes, depending on the size of the snake. The more picky eaters might get mice or African Soft Furs (ASFs), a more rare type of rat.
As far as I know, there are no pythons that are cannibals. There are some other species of snakes, such as the king snake or the king cobra, that do eat other snakes.
If you provide them with the proper environment (enclosure, bedding, heating, humidity, food), then they pretty much do everything necessary for breeding on their own. You simply put the male and female together and let them do their thing. As for knowing when they've copulated (aka, "doing the deed"), the first time they copulate, they stay that way for 12-24 hours. Talk about stamina! Basically, the tips of their tails lock together and the male inverts his hemipenes and inserts them into the female. It's hard to miss the first lockup of the season between a pair if you check on them 3-4 times a day. Additional lockups between the two will be shorter, but still usually several hours in length. Females really only need a few lockups if they are building their follicles in order to successfully produce eggs. I try to get my pairs to lock at least once per month until ovulation.
I think I need to clarify what exactly constitutes an attack from a python. Pythons only attack their prey. They strike, bite and constrict. They don't crush, but their constricting makes it difficult for their prey to breathe. With every exhale of the prey, the snake constricts tighter, making it impossible for the prey to breathe. Ultimately, the prey will suffocate and die. At that point, the snake releases the constriction and swallows the prey. I've never been attacked by a python, in the sense that they thought I was prey. I know this has happened to others, and there are methods to get them to release, but in general, they will let go after a few minutes when they realize you aren't dying and they've mistaken you for food. Most bites people get from pythons are from defensive strikes. These are bites that occur because the snake is scared and wants you to leave them alone. The snake will not pursue you, but rather will seek to run away. Therefore, the best way to get them to calm down is to put them back in their enclosure and leave them alone. Generally speaking, the time between opening the snake's enclosure and when you pick them up is the time when you're most likely to get bit. Once you get them in your hands, they usually calm down and are fine. Every once in a while, you'll get one that is so high strung that even after picking them up they are tense and stressed out. The only thing you can do with those are to spend time handling them every day. That may acclimate them to your handling and they should calm down.
If you go to my website (link is at the top of this page) and check out my YouTube videos, I have some where I unbox snakes I received in the mail. You can see exactly how they get packed and shipped.
If properly packed, the snakes won't jostle around too much in transit. The boxes are also labeled as fragile and containing live animals, so most people handling them will be careful as well.
A green liquid coming from his heat pits? That's definitely not normal. I have no experience with that, nor have I ever heard about anyone else experiencing it. If it continues, I would suggest taking him to your vet.
I don't know how necessary it is, but it definitely doesn't hurt. I usually feed live, but occassionally need to feed frozen/thawed. When I do feed frozen/thawed, I typically wiggle the prey item in front of the snake for a few seconds to simulate movement. Typically, if the snake is going to eat, it will strike the prey and constrict. I don't typically keep moving the prey item after that happens, but a couple seconds of movement to simulate a struggling prey certainly won't hurt.
I have no hands on experience with either of those species. I would recommend seeking out advice from keepers of those species. Feeding habits can vary widely between different snake species, so any advice I can offer may be useless at best and even potentially destructive to your cause.
There have been no recorded incidents of a ball python killing a human. Ball pythons only constrict prey. If the snake does not believe you are prey, it will not constrict with the intent to kill. A snake may hold on tight to your arm (or your neck if you have it draped over your neck) if it feels unsupported, but it won't be with the intent to harm. A ball python will never mistake your sleeping son as a food source. If a ball python escapes, it will look for a warm, tight, dark spot to hide and wait for a rodent to pass by.
Your son has a greater danger of dying from falling out of bed than from a ball python.
Odds of dying from falling off a bed, chair, other furniture: 1 in 4,238
Odds of dying from a constrictor snake: 1 in over 5 million
Constrictor snakes kill, historically, 1 person every two years. Falling off furniture kills over 500 people every year. These numbers are easily verified through a web search.
A ball python is a great pet for kids of all ages. Don't let irrational fear keep your son from enjoying such a wonderful pet. Good for you for actively looking to find answers!
You would get a combination of the following:
fire bees, fire spiders, fireflies, fires
There's a good genetics calculator on http://worldofballpythons.com that will allow you to enter the genetics of males and females to see what offspring you would produce. It also includes pictures of many of the various combinations that have been produced.
Yes, I've been bitten many times. The snakes I work with are not venomous, so it's not dangerous, and usually is pretty painless. Their teeth are so sharp and small that it feels similar to getting an injection.
Enchi goes well with Albino. Good luck!
Inbreeding isn't generally a problem with ball pythons and in general it's less of a problem with reptiles than other animal species. I don't recall where I read it and I don't have a source to back this up, but I've read of breeders line breeding (breeding related individuals) ball pythons for many generations without noticeable effects on the resulting offspring.
That being said, I'm not recommending that you breed related individuals together. I would recommend against it if possible, but it shouldn't result in genetically defective babies if you were to do so.
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